The Restaurant at The Address Downtown serves fare with a touch of the exotic

The views are also to die for

I was happy to go back to The Address Downtown to review The Restaurant, its 24-hour French-British-themed eatery (yes, clearly, it's possible for the two to be on the table together!): it's been years since I visited the property, and I'd quite forgotten how gorgeous it is. The Restaurant is on the 6th floor, and has stunning views of Downtown Dubai. With a storm threatening the sand pit that evening, the outside seating (on the overhanging balcony) was the perfect setting. The sight of the Burj encased in a swathe of clouds is always a memory curated straight for the treasure trove.
Inside, it's done up like a "contemporary French residence", with the sprawling space (seamlessly) divided into sections such as the Lounge, the Gallery, the Living Area, the Dining Room, the Library and so on. Despite the understated luxury, there's a cosy, homely feel to it - and the mellow lighting sets you at ease immediately.
The French offerings trump the British ones in terms of quality. Our Dover Sole was rather a disappointment, even though our French starters had set a distinctively high benchmark. The most interesting bit was the Eton Mess, a typical "English" creation - but here it's been "French-ified" and made gourmet with meringue biscuits and strawberry compote.
My abiding memory of The Restaurant at The Address Downtown (if you are Uber-ing, try not to mix it up with The Address Boulevard one) is: the go-to venue to sip on sundowners in a city where the sun never really goes down.
TASTE
My Ricotta Cheese Ravioli starter was exquisite: gentle, soft and full of flavour. The Steak Tartare my companion had was juicy and well-used; the accompanying bread was a tad hard. The seabass and the sole were slightly bland. But the Eton Mess in the end was a good sign-off!
AMBIENCE
In a word: stunning. From the al fresco area with its overwhelming views to the live kitchen, it feels haute Parisian with the whopping bonus of Dubai's skyline. The warm and welcoming Library deserves a special shoutout; and I can't rave enough about the "perfect" lighting.
SERVICE
Prompt, but a little bit lax when it came to addressing issues: for instance, we had to ask for butter for the bread platter. Other than that, typical fine dining etiquette ruled with invasions being kept at a minimum. An educated tour of the premises was a bonus.
PRESENTATION
Nothing very Insta-worthy: they probably have the "homely" theme in mind and don't make the food look intimidatingly pretty. The crockery was elegant: not too loud but makes a subtle statement. The salad and cheese bar near the live kitchen had an uncluttered feel to it.
VALUE FOR MONEY
Prices are in the 5-star range. Given the overall ambience, The Restaurant definitely calls for loosening of pursestrings, but it's worth it for a one-off experience. Some of the mains are for Dh110-120, so cost for 2 (incl starters and desserts) can be kept to within Dh500.
The Restaurant,
The Address
Downtown, Dubai
For reservations: 04-8883444
Cost for 2: Dh500 (excl. beverages)

• Food and Dining