Ramadan away from home: Our Iftar table is not complete without kanji

Kanji (or congee in English) is a meat-based porridge that is very popular and served across Sri Lanka during Ramadan.

A few hours before sunset during Ramadan, the kitchen at the household of Sri Lankan expat Mohamed Shiyam Mohamed Samoon, 44, is teeming with activity. His wife, Fathima Fazmi, is busy preparing traditional Sri Lankan dishes, including pakoras, fish cutlets, patties, egg rolls and other spicy and savoury snacks. There are also glasses of falooda made with rose syrup that are just mildly cold.
But not to be missed, and always at the centre of the dining table during Iftar, is the staple and popular Sri Lankan kanji. "The Iftar table is not complete without this dish," Mohamed said.
Kanji (or congee in English) is a meat-based porridge that is very popular and served across Sri Lanka during Ramadan. "There are several variations and ingredients of kanji - you can put beef, mutton or chicken. But my favourite, of course, is my mother's recipe," said Mohamed, a Dubai resident for 18 years.
Keeping the custom and passing on the teachings from his parents are very important for Mohamed, who is originally from Kandy, a city in central Sri Lanka. "Although I miss home during Ramadan, I share with my kids the stories of my childhood during the holy month. I tell them how our streets were filled with people - parents with their kids, the young and the old, groups of boys and girls - walking and going to the local mosques.
The streets were alive until late night and early morning, unlike during non-Ramadan days when houses went quiet as early as 9pm.
"But what I enjoyed the most were the hours I prayed with my mother and grandmother. On our way back after the prayers, we dropped by the stalls to enjoy street foods. Kids in the neighborhood put up stalls during Ramadan and I also put up my own, selling home-made snacks."
At present, the memories of Mohamed's childhood during Ramadan in Sri Lanka are relived though his children. "We try our best to celebrate Ramadan in the most Sri Lankan way possible - by honouring traditions, retelling stories and sharing food."
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• Ramadan 2021