The Wool Standard

There are so many fashion awards and prizes these days that the industry seems to have as many designers as prizes. But there is one international prize that has proven to be the defining one in fashion - the International Woolmark Prize (IWP).
The Australia-based Woolmark Co. has been promoting the use of Merino wool, a natural yarn known for its fineness and softness, for well over 50 years. The prize was launched in 1953 to promote what is termed as "Cool Wool" in the industry; the list of past winners of the prize include legendary designers like Karl Lagerfeld and the late Yves Saint Laurent. A substantial cash prize aside, winners get mentorships from leading design names globally, as well as retail opportunities from international fashion stores like Harvey Nichols, Saks Fifth Avenue and 10 Corso Como. Stuart McCullough, Managing Director of The Woolmark Company Ltd & Chief Executive Officer of Australian Wool Innovation Ltd, explains, "It is one of the most coveted awards, as the only one that offers an international distribution network with the world's most prestigious boutiques. The industry is very competitive, so any kind of programme that supports young talent financially and through exposure and knowledge is hugely valuable."
With rounds held in six regions before the finale, it truly has a finger on the global fashion pulse. Dubai falls under the combined 'India, Pakistan and the Middle East' region. With India's Rahul Mishra taking the prize in 2013 (and subsequently showing collections at every season of Paris Fashion Week) and Suket Dhir winning in the menswear category this year, there is a lot of excitement about the finalists from this region. There are some strong contenders from India (including Nachiket Barve and Rina Singh's Eka) and there is also a larger-than-ever representation from the Middle East in the 2016/17 finalists' lists.

In womenswear, five designers come from Lebanon and the Middle East, and two out of the four finalists are Middle East-based in the men's category. The nominating body for the UAE designers was the Dubai Design and Fashion Council (DDFC). "The UAE-based nominees for the International Woolmark Prize are providing strong representation for the region, showcasing our commitment to developing local and regional talent through their work ethic and innovative designs," says Nez Gebreel, CEO, DDFC." Considering that Dubai has only been represented in the IWP regional rounds since 2014, the number of designers from the Emirates is really impressive.
Last year, the regional round was held in Dubai. This year, it will be held in Mumbai, India, on July 15. Selected from the Middle East for women's wear are Bouguessa, Bint Thani, and Reem Al Kanhal, and in menswear, Emperor 1688 and Mashael Alrajhi are the contestants. Bouguessa and Bint Thani are Dubai-based fashion brands which recently showed at Fashion Forward Dubai. Both labels are about giving modest wear a contemporary and international context. A win for either of these at the regional and then (hopefully) at the gobal final, would really make a strong statement for Middle Eastern fashion.
This year started with the news that Italian luxury house Dolce and Gabbana, the fashion house known for its love of corsetry, was to launch a special "modest wear" capsule collection. Their abayas and hijabs have all the signature details of Dolce and Gabbana's Spring 2016 collection such as appliquéd daisies, jewelled lemons and lace trims, adding some fun to the pieces. And while a few regional critics felt this collection did not really embrace local culture and was a little gimmicky, the Dubai fashionistas seem to have embraced it wholeheartedly. The Italian brand has now released a second capsule collection of modest wear that is now available in stores in the region, and also at selected international stores such as London's Harrods. Of course, they are aimed purely at the Middle Eastern buyer.
What's interesting is that the outfits designed by Bint Thani and Bouguessa are all about modest wear that really appeals to all women. Faiza Bouguessa has interned with British designer Roland Mouret, and her collection was one of the standout presentations at FFWD Dubai, including velvet-style wraps in deep jewel tones, decadent yet with an easy feel. It also included easy-to-wear tunics that would work wonderfully under her velvet wraps. Of course, there were abayas, but they all looked so international that women on the streets of Paris, Milan and New York would be equally comfortable in them.
Khulood Thani normally shows her label Bint Thani in London and not Dubai, but she made an exception at this year's FFWD, showing her collection of around 12 pieces. This standing room-only show was one of the most awaited presentations of that week. The Dubai-based designer displayed her ready-to-wear collection called 'The Journeyer', which took inspiration from the region's seasides. Soft and navy blues, with orange and aqua green, it was an eye-catching palette. Favouring long silhouettes with crop trousers, it was all about ease for Bint Thani.
Architectural references have always been a constant for Thani, and sharp shoulders, double collars and asymmetry in this collection were a testament to this. Like Bouguessa, there was a feel of elegant loungewear to her designs. (The evening pajama look is one that featured strongly on the catwalks of Milan just this season).
The strong representation of the Middle East in the regional round of the IWP suggests that fashion is starting a new conversation with modest wear, seeing it as not just something specific to the Middle East, but for the international woman of fashion.
As McCullough says, "Dubai is certainly establishing itself as a hub for talent, which is no surprise as it's now a major destination for luxury fashion". While we may see the "naked' dress still being a firm favourite on the red carpet, as supermodels and Hollywood stars enjoy showing off their well-toned bodies in cut-out dresses, there is a movement to become more modest in fashion too. And perhaps the Middle East's love of fashion has encouraged this.
With the IWP regional finals being held in just a few weeks, on July 15, here's hoping that a designer from this region is selected, making the case for modest dressing even stronger.
sujata@khaleejtimes.com