Dining by design

Eating in a nightclub that’s created by a fashion designer might be cause for concern, so can Cavalli Club amaze the palate, along with the eye?

Is it a restaurant? Is it a nightclub? Is it a safari exploding over a furniture sale? Is it the remnants of the last days of Rome? Is it the best — or worst — hangout in Dubai? Is it any of the above? Nobody quite knows. It’s Cavalli Club; a unique experience that needs to be seen to be believed.

What it certainly is can be summed up in one word — eclectic. It’s a place that is born of the mind of fashion designer Roberto Cavalli, whose style is unique, decadent, luxurious, flamboyant and bestial (in that he appears to have a penchant for every type of animal print the natural world has to offer).

The style of Cavalli might impress — or distress — you, but it will certainly stay with you. Dining at Cavalli Club is an experience, partly as it feels as though one has strayed into a nightclub, partly into a fashion shop, partly into a safari park, but rarely into a restaurant. And yet that shouldn’t preclude the fashionable diner from eating well.

Fortunately, where I may find Cavalli’s fashion distasteful, his food is anything but. The designer has clearly hired talent in his kitchen, which serves predominantly Italian cuisine to a very high standard. In order not to miss out on too much, you can sample all the starters from a taster menu, or work your way through them instead. Highlights are the potted shrimp and crab, whilst for main course you should try the wagyu steak for two. It’s a contender for Dubai’s best.

And once well fed, you’ll notice a shift in the atmosphere. At the start of the evening the dining area is quiet, but by the time dessert is finished it’ll be busy. At this point the attentive staff replace your white tablecloth with a black one… you look around and realise you’re now dining in a nightclub.

wknd@khaleejtimes.com

In 7 words: Surreal, unique, decadent, yet serving superb food

What we liked: The starter selection and cocktails

What we didn’t like: The lighting before the mood changes

Restaurant best for: Fashion lovers

Cost for one: Dh450 (approx., without drinks)

Contact: Cavalli Club, Fairmont Hotel, Dubai, 04-3329260

• Food and Dining