Bedouin: Design without borders

Andraya Farrag's fashion label Bedouin is proof that style has no set language

When you think of the word Bedouin, you think of traditional tribespeople who mostly worked in agriculture or fishing and, due to climatic conditions, had to be on the move. Known for having a deep sense of community, the Bedouin culture is also full of music, dance and poetry. The women wore throb-like dresses, often with embroidery around the seams, neckline and hem, and enjoyed their jewellery and bright scarves. Which is why you expect a fashion label called Bedouin to be about tradition, colour and embellishment.
'Made in Dubai' label Bedouin, however - which earlier this week held a showing for their Spring/Summer collection in the middle of the desert - is about contemporary, clean clothes that have been injected with a burst of bling. It is a label that prides itself on being minimalistic. Yet, designer Andraya Farrag insists the name is apt.
Half Egyptian and half English, Farrag was born and raised in London but has also lived in Dubai for well over a decade. Today, she splits her time between both cities: the former being where she does most of her research and design, and the latter where her label is produced. Bedouin is a representation of her own nomadic life, she says. "When dreaming up what I wanted the brand to be about, I imagined honouring tradition with a contemporary aesthetic, a jet-set global lifestyle and style without borders or boundaries."
The Middle East is a constant source of inspiration, and Bedouin is all about mixing the opulence of the East with the ease of the West. Says Farrag, "In London, women dress for practicality; the weather needs to be taken into account, so women there have become incredible at layering basics and knitwear. London style can be quite contemporary, but vintage accessories and denim are also very popular. Overall, the style is understated and casual but cool, which is something I really love. In Dubai, women do not need to be as practical. There are a lot of beautiful places to go to and people are not afraid to dress up and make the most of themselves here. It has taught me to incorporate a bit of glamour into my designs."
In Farrag's first collection, the Dazzle Bomber Jacket - a structured jacket in a highly iridescent fabric - was her sellout piece. She realised that working with metallic fabrics while keeping it clean and easy to wear was a winning formula. For her spring edition, the 'hero' of the collection was also a jacket. "We took a traditional denim jacket and gave it a new lease of life with gorgeous jacquards. We used punk-inspired lettering on a 90's denim jacket silhouette to reflect a carefree and positive spirit; I've named it 'NOT A DENIM JACKET'."
The current collection is called Marrakesh, and Farrag drew from the traditional geometric patterns and "beautiful architecture of the city" for it. Though her collection has a Western feel in terms of construction, it is only available in a couple of stores in London, whereas in the Middle East, there are many stores that stock her label, including Dubai's Galleries Lafayette. Many of the city's style setters - such as social media influencers Kat Le Brass, Samantha Francis and Natalia Shustova - are known to be part of the label's 'tribe' too.
The Bedouin show is one of the most packed shows of Fashion Forward Dubai; though Farrag will not be showing at the next edition of the fashion platform, she is sure she'll be back soon and hopes to host more standalone shows across the city in the meantime.
For a new label, she notes Dubai is a fairly "accepting" city. "When launching Bedouin, I genuinely believed that it would be easier in Dubai, because the market is less saturated; plus, at the time, there were lesser brands than there are now." The journey hasn't been without its struggles. "I come from a community of designers with very small budgets that really have to hustle in order to stand out. When I brought Bedouin to Dubai, I had no budget at all, unlike a lot of my counterparts. It took a lot of time to adjust to this but I believe that Bedouin is liked for its design aesthetic, quality and a story that women in the Middle East can really relate to."
Farrag's multi-cultural approach has also helped make the label appealing to a broader audience. "I always make sure to include some modest pieces in my collections, which 'covered' women from the region can wear."
With each trip Farrag makes to Dubai (last year, due to work commitments, she spent nine months in the city), she sees it becoming more and more diverse - a place that celebrates novelty, while retaining a great sense of community and tradition. "I love exploring Deira with my friends and feasting at places like Ravi. I find that it is a great way to remain grounded and remind myself that there is much more to Dubai than the glamour."
Farrag firmly believes it is her Middle Eastern inspirations that will help her take her style-without-borders story to international platforms. "In this global climate, I feel that most brands are now adopting the East-West approach. It is important to appreciate and celebrate culture and heritage but also to move forward in a fast-paced world."
sujata@khaleejtimes.com

• Style In The City