Thunder down under in Tasmania

Australia's southern island state is a symphony of history and nature

By Sandip Hor

• Follow us on
• 
• 
• 

Published: Fri 31 Aug 2018, 12:00 AM

Last updated: Fri 31 Aug 2018, 2:00 AM

Many Tasmanians say experiencing their land is somewhat unique; it's different from the rest of mainland Australia. They offer many reasons: the weather is cooler, traffic is considerably lesser, crowds are almost invisible and overall ambience is much quieter. Most importantly, they claim there are not many places in the mainland where stunning nature and poignant history intermingle as dramatically as they do in Tasmania.
As an Aussie mainlander, I obviously land there with a mind to compare but doubts disappear soon. I fall in agreement with their opinion the moment I begin my odyssey from Hobart - where, every year, over a million visitors arrive to explore the Aussie island state on the southern side of the continent.
Spanning seven hills, state capital Hobart is like a big country town with a much smaller population compared to mainland capital cities. Hence, typical urban syndromes like traffic congestion, crowd accruals and environmental hazards are considerably lesser. Winds from the Antarctic keep the temperature moving up and down throughout the state - so keeping a jumper in the backpack is a good idea.
The landscape romantically cuddles the eclectic spreads of the Derwent River, with the towering 1,271m high Mt Wellington providing a majestic backdrop and connecting the urban setting with unspoilt bushland. The first port of call for most visitors is the summit of this mountain, which is only a short drive from the city centre or an adventurous trek along a winding hilly road through the clement rainforest, sub-Alpine flora and glacial rock formations. Doesn't matter whether driving or walking, the journey ends with awesome rewards as the 360-degree vista of the domain below takes your breath away and cements Hobart as one of the most beautiful settlements in the world. While nature is inspiring, I find Hobart's 200 years of history no less captivating.
After Sydney, it's the continent's oldest settlement. It was founded by the British in 1804 as another home for convicts; it was also a defensive outpost to keep the French away from the region. Soon, it became the political and commercial hub of the island, then called Van Diemen's Land.
Tucked between its modern dressings are many enclaves in Hobart where its past meets present. It's most obvious around Sullivan's Cove (the locale of the first settlement), Battery Point (a former maritime enclave), and Salamanca Place (the epicentre of trade and commerce during colonial heydays when whaling and sealing businesses generated massive wealth in Hobart).
These historic quarters are packed with some finest examples of Georgian architecture, which were built by convicts as labourers. Some of the notable buildings which draw the attention of architectural buffs are the Town Hall, Parliament House, St David's Cathedral, and the Theatre Royal, the country's oldest continuously operating stage. They remind the modern generation of the good old days. Salamanca Place comes alive every Saturday when the site becomes a busy marketplace, selling almost everything from traditional crafts and works of emerging artists to vintage finds, fresh produce, old books and antique objects. Shades of Tasmania's trading past can still be seen in some of the market's knife-makers, wood-turners, metal smiths and jewellers.
Beyond Hobart, there are several other locations throughout the state that narrate tales from the past. Unfortunately, not all of them are glowing. The gloomier sides are exposed when visiting former penal settlements - like the one at Port Arthur, located about an hour and a half away from Hobart, on the scenic Tasman Peninsula.
"This is a great place to understand the early history of our nation," says tour guide Sam while escorting me through a series of sandstone buildings. They are all set in a very scenic and peaceful environment, which doesn't show any sign that, between 1833 and 1877, over 12,000 British convicts lived there under the constant threat of extremely harsh punitive treatments. Today, the convicts and guards are gone, but their compelling stories remain hidden within the bricks and mortar. One such story is about George 'Billy' Hunt, who attempted to escape by covering himself under a kangaroo skin, but the guards spotted him as a 'running roo' and started shooting. Hunt, sensing danger of death, threw off his camouflage and surrendered, receiving 150 lashes for his troubles. Another convict Henry Singleton was locked in isolation for days when he too was caught planning an escape. It's hard to control emotions when hearing these tales, and the scale of the subsequent punishments - some surely out of proportion to the crime committed.
So, it's not unusual to depart historical sites like Port Arthur with a heavy heart while wondering how so much cruelty could crop up in human minds when the natural surroundings are so calm, soothing and charming.
Tasmania's nature truly is like a balm for the mind and soul while also being a feast for the eyes. It's hard not to feel that way at the sight of mountain ranges, wild rivers, sprawling lakes, glaciated peaks and dense rainforests packed with leatherwood trees - some thousands of years old. It's not essential to visit every nook and corner of the land to get a sense of this. I got it straightaway after adventuring through the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park, which is a four hours' drive up northwest from Hobart. This Alpine surrounding, which encompasses the 1,671m-high Mt Ossa, is Tasmania's highest peak, and 200m-deep Lake St Clair, the deepest freshwater body in Down Under, is at the top of any Tasmanian itinerary. The crown jewel of this UNESCO World Heritage-listed wilderness is Cradle Mountain whose reflections in the mirror-still waters of Dove Lake during dawn and dusk are simply divine and any photographer's dream.
While in the area, a visit to the world-class wildlife conservation facility Devils@Cradle, gives me a sight of the rare Tasmanian devils - the planet's largest living carnivorous marsupial, unique to Tasmania.
I glimpse a different kind of nature when I cruise along the coastline of Bruny Island, located not far from Hobart coastline. This exciting boat ride through the swelling waves of the Southern Ocean grants me a close encounter with Australia's tallest sea cliffs, towering crags, blow holes and deep-sea caves as well as abundant sea life including seals, dolphins, migrating whales and seabirds.
The symphony of nature and history strikes me again when on the West Coast Wilderness Railway, which started its journey in 1896 as the lifeblood of a copper mine in remote Queenstown, located in the state's northwest region. Today, it's a touristy venture running double-carriage trains between Queenstown and seafront Strahan. Hauled by original steam engines made in Glasgow, this journey showcases the region's mining history as well as the beauty of passing rivers, deep gorges, majestic rainforests and exotic bird life.
During this trip, a family from Melbourne with two kids sitting next to me sings the Australian national anthem where a line says "our land abounds in nature's gifts of beauty rich and rare". While listening, I ponder if this was written with Tasmania in mind.
TRAVEL NOTEBOOK:
Getting There: Fly Emirates (www.emirates.com) from Dubai to Sydney, and then Virgin Australia (www.virginaustralia.com) to Hobart.
Stay: While many options are available throughout the state, some notable ones are MACq01 (www.macq01.com.au) in Hobart; Penghana Bed & Breakfast (penghana.com.au) in Queenstown; and Cradle Mountain Wilderness Village (www.cradlevillage.com.au) in Cradle Valley.
More information: www.discovertasmania.com.au and www.australia.com
wknd@khaleejtimes.com