Handloom makes a statement at Lakme Fashion Week

While this new emphasis on weaves in something that should be encouraged, let's hope fashion is not just doing this as a way of gaining Modi's goodwill.

Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi has charisma. The masses don't just come out in numbers to hear him, but also to devour every bit of information that they can lay their hands on, be it the food, his daily morning yoga routine, and, of course, his trademark 'Modi Kurta'.
Yes, Modi, the politician, is viewed as a fashion icon. Remember the monogrammed pinstripe suit he wore when President Obama visited India?
When he came into power many in the fashion industry were worried with his 'Make In India' campaign. It was viewed as being pro the financially strong power loom industry. Across social media, the fashion industry asked connoisseurs of style to sign the www.change.org petition, "Don't Repeal the Handloom Act". This protected the handloom weavers against being copied by machine made power loom competitors.
Fashion (as it often does) may have overreacted. Of late, it seems the government has shown that it is very much pro weavers. The Modi government signed an MoU with online portal Flipkart to promote handloom fashion last year.

Designer Anita Dongre debuted her new Modern Pret line label "Grassroots" at Lakme Fashion Week showing that weaves are not only about wedding wear, but can also be a part of your everyday wardrobe. (Click on images to enlarge)

Recently, at Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai Alok Kumar, Development Commisoner of Handlooms in the Textile Minstry, along with Shaina NC lit the lamp on the opening of Indian Handloom and Textiles day. For several seasons now Lakme Fashion Week (one of the most important fashion events in India) has encouraged fashion to realize their responsibility towards keeping textile and crafts in Indian fashion alive.
At this recent edition special attention was given to Varanasi, which by no coincidence happens to be Modi's constituency. A social media hashtag was created #ReinventBanaras for the week.
As part of Lakme Fashion Week's pre-opening BJP's spokesperson Shaina NC (who started her career as a fashion designer and at one point was known as "the queen of the sari drape") unveiled an exhibition called "Women Wonders of Varanasi" at Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum.
Curated by the designer-politician it included the works of Rohit Bal, Rina Dhaka and Gaurav Gupta. (What is interesting is that, this event supported by Lakme Fashion Week took place at the same museum where last season there was a bit of fashion faux pas. The finale show has been slated to be held at this very museum but had to find a new venue at the last minute as the powers that be in the city decided fashion was more entertainment than culture and did not belong at a heritage museum).
During Lakme Fashion Week while textiles from all over India were seen on the ramp, there was a lot of extra love being given to Banaras. While some of the fashion seen on the ramp in the name of promoting weaves lacked true style, there is no question that this city weaves deserves to be celebrated. But one can't help questioning the timing

Traditional handloom designer Gaurang showcased his collection 'Samyukta' inspired from the fearless Rajput princess who had the grit and determination to walk to the beat of her own heart. The collection is a rendering of his passion for the Indian textile which he has beautifully translated into wearable art. (Click on images to enlarge)

At this recent edition special attention was given to Varanasi, which by no coincidence happens to be Modi's constituency. A social media hashtag was created #ReinventBanaras for the week.
Fashion for a while has been trying to woo the government. The "Made in India" fashion label does not enjoy the same sort of governmental support as the 'Made in Italy' label or indeed as the 'Made in the Emirates' receives.
For centuries Varanasi has been known for its beautiful weaves. Though even international fashion houses such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Alexander McQueen have used the beautiful fabrics of the city in their collections, the weavers have hardly benefitted financially.
Long time textile reviver and senior fashion designer Ritu Kumar's show at Lakme Fashion Week was a virtual ode to the city. From the elegant white on white jamdani weaves to shimmering brocades it had a vintage yet modern feel. And to bring the message to forefront she even had Shaina NC along with the master weavers from Modi's constituency take the final bow.
Ritu was not alone. Gaurang Shah and Anita Dongre too stayed with the #ReinventBanaras tagline. Dongre debuted her new Modern Pret line label "Grassroots" at Lakme Fashion Week showing that weaves are not only about wedding wear, but can also be a part of your everyday wardrobe. These weaves could be dressed up or dressed down. This was a strong pret collection by India's most commercially successful designer.
Anita also looked to Gujarat, known for its intrinsic mirror-work, embroidery and tie-and-dye techniques as well as their weaves. At the end of the show Anita walked the ramp along with the artisans of Gujarat and the designer received a deserving standing ovation.
She also launched a documentary of Banaras at the fashion week. Now one can't help but think that this show that must have made Modi himself very happy. Gujarat is his home state and Varanasi is his constituency.
While this new emphasis on weaves in something that should be encouraged, let's hope fashion is not just doing this as a way of gaining Modi's goodwill. The good news is that you can expect to see another show celebrating the weaves of Banaras, at India's next fashion exhibition, the Amazon India Fashion Week that takes place in October in Delhi. Hopefully this is a style statement that is here to stay.