Why Tarun Tahiliani doesn't chase Bollywood

In an exclusive chat with City Times, ace Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani talks about his cosmic collection Tarakini, his views on celeb show stoppers and why Dubai is a true fashion melting pot

When an Indian designer tells you, 'I don't chase Bollywood', you tend to either dismiss it with a smirk or sit up and take note. After all in a country like India where for a vast majority, fashion begins and ends with the carefully curated ensembles picked up by 'designers' for the lead stars to wear onscreen, there can be no bigger validation for a designer than having a celeb endorsement to get his/her cash registers ringing.
In the case of Tarun Tahiliani, however you can be sure it is the latter. For the simple reason that you can't build up a fashion empire renowned for its strong Indian ethos juxtaposed on Western sensibilities on starry muses alone.
Not that Tahiliani doesn't boast a trail of high-profile clients, having dressed the likes of Deepika Padukone, Katrina Kaif and Shilpa Shetty to name a few.
During his recent showcase at the Lakme Fashion Week Summer Resort 2018, where his Tarakini collection of ethereal whimsical star-studded pieces stole the show, the designer's use of Kriti Sanon as the show stopper, however, stumped many. "When I saw Kriti Sanon in Bareilly ki Barfi, I saw real star power," the designer explains when we ask him what is so special about the newbie actress. "Beautiful, poised, she shows great versatility. She is a true free spirit, can carry a regular salwar-kameez and a couture ensemble with effortless ease. Incredibly full of spirit and life, you cannot keep your eyes off her. At that moment I decided the new girl for Tarun Tahiliani. Her career, her character makes her modern and youthful and her trans-India cool makes her perfect for a model icon for young India and our India Modern look."
The modern Indian bride is of course, of great concern to Tahiliani. Specially since he feels designers have failed them with their "heavy stuff and uncomfortable" clothes which most brides don't bother to repeat. So his new collection, which he has brought to Dubai will showcase the light comfortable vibe that will ensure brides will have fun even as they look glamorous. Tahiliani's design ethos is pretty straight-forward: "As contemporary Indians, our style has to be our own and not have a schizophrenic one style for Indian clothing and another for the West as that makes us look derivative. So I think we must live in the present and be fluidly modern. One can be traditional but I hate the idea of living in the past. Tomorrow must have freshness." A sentiment that's beautifully reflected in the collections he brings out every year. While his love for design has remained constant over the years, he's also been careful to "balance commercial considerations with my love of design" so it doesn't all turn out to be one "giant self-indulgence"
'Self-indulgence' is definitely not one of Tahiliani's vices. Even his pick of Kriti Sanon as show stopper seems more of a practical need-of-the-moment reaction. "I still shy away from Bollywood," he asserts. "But over the years, several models, muses who I have worked with are in Bollywood - Deepika Padukone, Katrina Kaif and many more. I continue working with them with the same openness.
"Increasingly Fashion Weeks also require certain star power to get your audiences in. We partner with them in this endeavour. We select someone who represents our brand, our collection and then put it out for our audiences. Surely there is a star value to it, but it isn't like I am chasing Bollywood."
What he's chasing instead is a more visceral experience when it comes to designing bridal wear. "Every bride comes to me with one request. I WANT TO LOOK THE BEST," he explains. "First it used to be Big, Bold & Beautiful. The bride of today is looking for comfort, for a perfect fit and a new lightness in which she can move, dance and enjoy herself at her wedding."
Which is what he's offering brides with his new collection. "Tarakini is the embodiment of a spirit that I wanted because I am very tired of seeing women weighed down by overtly heavy clothes. We work on a very high-grade fit and construction to allow for drama without destruction of comfort and like you would look at the universe and the stars, in the lightness as they are floating, that's where the origins of the name 'Tarakini' came in."
So over the years how have the expectations from a bridal designer evolved?
"Yes, brides have become a lot more demanding. This is a good sign. This means they are more aware. No more are they pushed around by what Ma or Ma-in-Law demands. Their sartorial choices for their big day are reflective of themselves, peer groups, social media influencers and Bollywood."  
But he again asserts he isn't politically correct when it comes to choosing the 'right muse'. "I don't believe in Body Shaming. I don't chase Bollywood. All my muses are real. I think beauty doesn't lie in the body size, it lies in the personality, the character and the dignity with which a person carries themselves, how they live out their lives, their beliefs not just on screen, but off screen too."
Not for Tahiliani, then, the eyeballs that celebs grab when seen in one of his outfits. "Yes, celeb dressing sure gets a lot of eyeballs and clicks. These may or may not be our buying audience. How does celebrity chase, ogling at a celebrity in a couture garment, sending some Facebook likes count as an eyeball? This is lost on me. I do dress a lot of celebrities, unless they are comfortable with it, we don't push such posting. To me, my biggest endorsements are people who wear my garment, look amazing and they are endorsements in themselves. The people who see them, interact with them, party and share spaces with them are the eyeballs I seek." Touche.
Tahiliani on Dubai
"I think Dubai is very glamorous. Every time I land I look at the ladies at immigration with their big black head scarves - Arab women tend to do up their eyes very beautifully. I think it is very exotic that they are so mysterious. I think perhaps the time has come where people are too in your face and there is too much information, so if there is some mystery or mystique, it is always more alluring in a human being, especially in women. I think obviously Dubai is a city with a lot of new money; it has grown more mercurially in the last thirty years and wherever there is new money, there tends to be a lot of flash. I find the Arab women very appealing in the way they dress, I find that a lot of people from the outside with their fake blonde hair and 'overtight' Juicy Couture tracksuits a bit much but I think the dust will settle. I think it (Dubai) is a wonderful melting pot and it embraces all kinds of fashion. Where else in the world would Western, Arabic and Indian fashion mingle? I hope I can have a store here very soon."
Advice to Brides
"Take everyone's advice but be yourself. Don't subjugate your personality to look like something you are not. Don't act. Just be! Be free. Have fun. This is your moment, seize the moment, that is the magic."
What's the signature Tarun Tahiliani Style?
Drapes, lightness, construct, intricate details.
The most stylish accessory a bride can have:
Her personality, her spirit, her confidence.
Your most prized fashion possession:
Family heirlooms handed down through generations.  
Your biggest vice:
TRAVEL!  
If you had to choose one celebrity only who would wear your designs forever, every day, who would it be and why?
Katrina Kaif, she knows how to carry our clothes.
Last piece of designer wear you bought yourself:
Brunello Cucinelli sweaters.
Celebs in Tarun Tahiliani
"For years, even before they became stars, I have dressed Deepika Padukone and Katrina Kaif. They have been my models and continue to champion my brand. I think Queen Rania of Jordon is extremely chic. Obviously, Kriti Sanon and Sonam Kapoor are great favourites. I think that Shraddha Kapoor and Alia Bhatt are also very interesting personalities and have great personal flair."
Catch Tarun Tahiliani in Dubai
Which girl doesn't dream of stepping into that perfectly cut designer wear to the most important day of her life? With news that Tarun Tahiliani will be in town today and tomorrow to deliver a highly curated collection for his local clientèle, there is bound to be excitement. The designer assures us that the pieces which will be part of his Dubai showcase will be the same as the ones shown in India. "The pieces will be the same, prices the same and most importantly, my design team is going to be on hand to offer a personalised bridal experience," says Tahiliani who has dressed many a Dubai bride.
"I am looking forward to spending time with young brides to understand and share their ideas. If they require advisory, I am happy to provide it. It does not matter if the bride is a Size 0 or Size Plus.
"From 11.45am-12.45pm I will be giving a free advisory session for bridal wear. Any bride, bride's mother or fashion lover can join me for this session, especially young brides who want guidance on how to optimise this very special moment in shopping her bridal ensembles."
Tarun Tahiliani's Spring Summer 2018 collection Tarakini will be showcased at X-Lounge, La Ville Hotel & Suites, Citywalk today and tomorrow from 11am to 8pm.
ambica@khaleejtimes.com