Review: Spice & Ice

The first Indian restaurant in Jumeirah Lake Towers to jump onto the molecular gastronomy bandwagon, Spice & Ice has its futuristic concept down pat. It's their newly-launched Friday brunch that could use some tweaking.

These days, molecular gastronomy is not an unusual sight on Dubai's swanky dining scene. We've seen chefs use techniques we would previously never have equated with cooking to serve dishes that would shock and awe even the most difficult diner. After all, it's hard not to be impressed when you're served food transformed in taste and texture, through the marvels of modern science. Be it in jelly, liquid or frozen form, when you have a dish prepared in two minutes flat, smoking theatrically, it's more than delicious - it's intriguing.
It's even more interesting when Indian restaurants jump onto the molecular gastronomy trend. Eateries such as Tresind and Farzi Café have already paved the way, and the hottest new entry in Dubai's Indian dining scene is Spice & Ice, opened earlier this year in Jumeirah Lake Towers. With their newly-launched brunch menu promising a wide array molecular gastronomy wonders, this was an experience waiting to happen.
The first thing you'll probably notice when you step into the colourful, chic space is that it's loud. Dim lighting, mingling with the suave seating, comfy corner booths and English-Desi club music transform the restaurant into a high-end lounge. Even the tinted windows allow in very little natural light - perfect if you're looking for a night of dinner and dancing with friends and family. Not so perfect if you're looking for a quiet, relaxed brunch and don't like having to shout to be heard.  
Nevertheless, we liked how the servers were friendly despite being more than busy (the place was packed and people were already getting up to dance), and that the restaurant had cleverly eschewed the monotonous buffet for a set meal. Simultaneously, there's a cooking station offering dishes prepared molecular gastronomy-style on the side and you're free to pick what looks interesting. So far, so good.
The starters had thoughtfully included a nice selection of veg and non-veg options so my dining companion and I tucked into bite-seized portions of Paneer Tikka, Aloo Khubani Tikki, Vada Pav, Methi Chicken Tikka, Achari Boti and Prawn Sukha Tamatar. It was a great variety and we loved how the Vada Pav was done up like an upscale slider, how the Methi Chicken slivers were delectably tender and the prawn skewers had a subtle tangy freshness to them. The other starters, unfortunately, failed to make an impact.
Our entrees included Achari Paneer, Veg Jalfrezi, Chicken Pepper Fry, Tamatar Gosht, Goan Fish Curry, Dal Tadka, Vegetable Pulao and a portion of steamed rice. It's a hearty affair, with the peppery spice of the chicken stealing the show. The Veg Jalfrezi and paneer were also interesting but do keep in mind that there's more focus on keeping the dishes 'progressive' than authentic. The fish, for example, was deliciously tender, but dipped in what felt more like tomato sauce than the chilli-coconut curry Goa is famous for.
We've saved the best for the last, as usual. Browsing along the molecular gastronomy cooking stations, we couldn't resist the Dhokla, cooked in only one minute using liquid nitrogen. To put things in context, this popular Indian snack usually takes at least 12 minutes to be prepared in a steamer. So munching on the fluffy savoury gram flour cake felt like a miracle. Also, be sure to try their Dragon Puff. I accepted the dehydrated passion fruit puree, hardened with liquid nitrogen, while pondering over its unusual name. But when I popped it into my mouth (you're supposed to start chewing immediately) and had smoke drifting out of my nostrils, all doubts vanished. Very, very cool. By the time we were done, we didn't have space for their desserts but there's Gajar Halwa and Gulab Jamun, both served in wacky arrangements, to satisfy your sweet tooth. (Moral of the story: if you are planning to pay a visit, make sure you bring along a huge appetite to do justice to the spread.)
With this being the first Indian restaurant dabbling in molecular gastronomy in JLT, we really did have high expectations for Spice & Ice. And while it may be the perfect location for those looking for a night of partying, a brunching place this is not. The music can get irksome, especially
since the DJ kept turning the volume up. The mains could be more authentic as well. However, at Dh199 per person, this is value for money. As for the pitfalls, we're hoping an up-and-coming restaurant like Spice & Ice will rectify them in the months to come.
janice@khaleejtimes.com

• Food and Dining