Restaurant review: Jaan at the Penthouse

Jaan at the Penthouse in Sofitel Dubai Downtown is one of the newer entrants to Dubai's molecular gastronomy scene. It presents Indian food with an international feel. and loads of panache

It's rather hard not to be impressed when your drink is smoking or when your dessert is cooled with liquid nitrogen. In fact, molecular gastronomy, which leaped onto UAE's culinary scene a few years ago, has been wowing customers ever since. Well, Jaan at the Penthouse has all this as well as something else up its sleeve - the view. As you can tell from the name, the swanky restaurant is located high up - 31 floors to be exact - and you definitely get a kick out of it if you manage to nab a table by the window. Even better, there's one solitary table (that's right, just one) against a floor-to-ceiling glass window overlooking the Burj Khalifa. So, if you're celebrating a special occasion with a large group, call ahead and reserve that table. Trust me on this, you won't want to miss that view.
Not that there isn't plenty of other stuff to see in Jaan at the Penthouse. The restaurant is divided into a lounge and a dining area, both dimly lit yet colourful. The lounge looked pretty comfy, with broad couches and a graffti wall, but my dining companion and I made a beeline for the main dining area which exudes class, with an arty feel.
Let's get to the important part - the food. Jaan at the Penthouse is the brainchild of Indian restaurateur Farrokh Khambata, and this is his first international foray. You can really see the effort he's put into make the restaurant appeal to global tastes. If the chopsticks placed next to our knife and fork aren't a clear enough indicator, the menu also boasts of a series of Japanese-inspired hand cut rolls and dishes with a European and Middle Eastern influence. Pretty impressive.
After suggestions from our friendly waiter, we placed an order for Cold Smoke Chaat, NaanZa and the Crab 69 Hand-Cut Roll. The Cold Smoke Chaat was served inside a treasure box. Puffed rice and crunchy spinach had a sprinkling of dhokla crumbs, crispy with liquid nitrogen, giving the popular streetfood a whole new dimension. I had ordered the NaanZa on something of a whim but am glad I did. Bite into this delicacy and you'll understand the name - an amalgation of naan and pizza - because delicious, creamy cheese and pizza sauce will ooze out. The rolls were a mouthful, and a definite plus for anyone who enjoys sushi. We were also provided with a palate cleanser after the course, and the mango chilli ice cream won points for being so innovative.
Onto our mains. I couldn't resist an order of Chole Hummus, because it seemed to combine two of my all-time favourite dishes. And although it was great, especially when paired with the Rumali Roti, the hummus was overpowered by the chole. It fact, we didn't get to taste the hummus, only felt it through the pastier texture. Our other order more than made up for it, and if you're ever at the restaurant and can order only one dish, it is imperative this be it - the Burmese Khowsuey. The dish, which is probably a throwback to the time Burma -now Myanmar -was part of British India, came in a pot large enough for two, surrounded by accompaniments - from extra noodles to diced chilli. Basically, everything you need to customise it to your taste, and it is a real treat, the rich, coconut curry teeming with lobster meat and spices.
Of course, no good Indian meal is complete without dessert. I opted for the French Toast Shahi Tukda and was bowled over by the presentation -  which was much like a sleek cake, with a syringe of sugar syrup poking out. My dining companion ordered the aptly-named Nirvana, and dug into the saffron panna cotta with gusto. I tried it, and the delicate balance of flavours made it a winner. Again, points for presentation - it came topped with a large chocolate leaf!
Like most restaurants foraying into molecular gastronomy, Jaan understands that presentation is key, and you'll find their food served in the quirkiest arrangements. In a competitive, fast-paced F&B industry like the UAE's, that's important. Because, as the old saying goes, what you see is what you get.

Finding Nemo
We didn't really order Life of Nemo, one of their more popular dishes, but we heard plenty about the Japanese-inspired option. It's a serving of blue fin tuna accompanied by a spiced dashi condiment. But the real kicker here is that the dish is served over a tiny fish bowl. with a real fish inside. Is it interesting or odd to eat fish, while sitting right in front of a live one? You decide!

What we liked: The Indian-fusion dishes, the presentation of the food and the friendly service
What we didn't like: Only one table gets the Burj Khalifa view
Cost for two: Dh400 approx
Contact: Jaan at the Penthouse, floor 31, Sofitel Dubai Downtown, Sheikh Zayed Road, Downtown Dubai, Dubai, Tel: 04-3388477
janice@khaleejtimes.com

• Food and Dining