All about the fabrics

For a well-crafted suit, the quality of your canvas matters. The pros at 8th Lining get into the seams of picking a suit best for you.

The Fabric: Regardless of the brand, fabric quality is vital. If the tag mentions "man-made," or "polyester," then this is a red flag. Instead, the only authentic words are "100% Wool". Wool should be the baseline fabric of any suit. Next, examine the type of yarn and where it's from. Italy, France and Britain are world leaders with brands such as Loro Piana, Dormeuil, Drago, Holland & Sherry, Dino Filarte and Dugdale.

The ConstructionGenerally, there are three main types of suit construction:

Fused Lining: A fused jacket has a fusible interlining that's glued to the wool shell of the suit - both in the front panels and in the lapels. Fusing the jacket gives the jacket shape, but doesn't conform to the wearer,

so it may lack the nice, natural drape of canvassed jackets.

Half Canvas: A half-canvassed suit jacket has a thin layer of fusible throughout the front panel of the jacket. On top of this layer, the front panel has a layer of canvassing stitched on that extends from the shoulder down through the chest. One can benefit from the natural drape and shape that canvas provides where the suit needs it the most -the chest and the lapel.

Full Canvas: A full-canvassed suit jacket is one that is constructed with canvas fabric spanning the entire inside front panels and lapels of the jacket. As a middle structural layer, the canvas is hand-stitched to the fabric rather loosely (i.e., a "floating" canvas), so the garment can move with you. What results is a suit that drapes much more naturally, conforms to the body and looks much better. It not only moulds the wearer but will also last longer.

The Stitching: Examine the quality of the craftsmanship and look to see how the suit comes together. Look at the quality of the stitching - not just the actual material, but also the technique used.

The Details: From the way the pockets are sewed, to the drape, the buttonholes, and the boutonniere loop - each of these small details have the biggest impact when it comes to how the suit looks. Machine-sewn pockets aren't as sturdy and will wear out quickly when utilised. Stiff lapels without a slight roll are a hallmark of a cheap suit. Plastic buttons can break, and even horn buttons that use plastic anchors can fail you.

The Design: If you're going to purchase a beautiful rust coloured suit with a distinguished check pattern, make sure it's going to last. If you've decided on a stunning white tux for your wedding day, then it needs to hold up in the photos. Even for a classic navy suit, the last thing you want is to have it look four shades of blue by next summer. Look at the design. How is it dyed? Is it even and are the colours vivid? Will they fade? Is the pattern perfectly done across the suit, or do they misalign where the fabric was cut? Look closely and pay attention.

Visit 8thlining.com for a selection of quality made to measure suits.