On a Game of Thrones trail in Northern Ireland

It is one of the most popular filming locations for HBO's hit TV series. It's where the show began - and, as rumour has it, where the show will end

It's 8am and I'm standing in chilly six-degree temperature, marvelling at the sight before me: a trail lined with thick beech trees, their trunks wider than most humans, their branches snaking together to cast the ground below in shadow. Aptly named the Dark Hedges, this avenue is one of Northern Ireland's most popular tourist attractions, and the ethereal setting has only become more popular after it was featured in HBO's hit series Game of Thrones (GoT). It is on this very path that Arya Stark escaped from King's Landing in a cart, dressed as a boy in season 2. It marks the beginning of her journey, the eerie location now iconic for foreshadowing what is to come.

But even before the Dark Hedges was featured in the show, it had a legacy to it. Over 150 trees are believed to have been planted in the 18th century by James Stuart in order to give his home, Gracehill House (named after his wife Grace), an 'imposing feel', our enthusiastic guide tells us. Today, these trees are home to myths and legends - most popularly that of the 'grey lady', who is believed to haunt the trees and 'jump between the branches'. She is thought to be either James Stuart's daughter, nicknamed Peggy (who was 'unlucky in love') or a maid who was mysteriously killed. Our Dark Hedges tour lasts 45 minutes and covers everything from the preservation of the trees to the filming of GoT.

April 14 marked the beginning of the eighth - and final season - of the epic fantasy drama, adapted from George R. R. Martin's A Song of Ice and Fire novels, and it has led to renewed interest in this ancient attraction. Tourists and fans are seen snapping away and driving up and down the trail in order to be a part of the show that has won more Primetime Emmy Awards than any other scripted series - which is why the best time to visit this attraction is early in the morning (what our guide called 'stupid o' clock'). While it is open to the public, the use of cars is banned for fear they may damage the trees' roots. Today, the Hedges Hotel, located nearby, offers free parking for this reason alone.

"It's widely believed that some of George R. R. Martin's inspiration for A Song of Ice and Fire came from Irish mythology," another tour guide explains. "The children of the forest, for example, are inspired by fairies. Meanwhile, ravens here are associated with rebirth and change - much like the three-eyed raven seen in the show"

As I turn to leave, I notice several ravens swooping between the branches of the Dark Hedges and can't help but look out for one with three eyes. Spooky!
Hold the door(s)

© Tourism Northern Ireland 
Filming for GoT began in Northern Ireland nearly 10 years ago - before anyone could have predicted the enormous success it would have. Today, Northern Ireland is the prime location for the series, with everything from 'Winterfell' to the 'North of the Wall' being shot here, although there are other shooting locations in Croatia, Iceland, Malta and Morocco, amongst others. This created a spike in tourism, with thousands of die-hard fans coming to see sites where the cast ate, slept and filmed, and to re-enact scenes from the show. To cater to the growing demand, a number of tours, immersive experiences and attractions have opened across Northern Ireland.

A personal favourite came from the Dark Hedges - although not in a way you would've guessed. When a few of the trees were destroyed by a storm, the wood from two were turned into 10 intricately carved GoT-inspired doors, each with a unique theme. These doors are located all around Northern Ireland - always next to a filming location. Real fans may want to get their hands on one of the 'passports' released by Northern Ireland's tourism board and visit each door in order to get a 'stamp'. How many doors do you think you can find?

A quest for this door takes me to Owen's, a traditional pub in the town of Limavady, where I settle within a cosy room, complete with a fireplace. Hungry after walking along the Dark Hedges, I stuff myself with vegetable soup and sandwiches, and end the meal in the best possible way - with a picture next to a heavy wooden door, with the carved face of the Night King glaring at me.
Into the woods

© Tourism Northern Ireland 
 
With over 25 filming locations for GoT set across Northern Ireland - all having been developed into visitor experiences - it's easy to stop by a seemingly innocuous spot, only to discover that 'this was the cave where Melisandre gave birth to the shadow creature' (Cushendun Caves) or 'this is where Jaime and Sir Bronn fought against the Dornish soldiers' (Portstewart Strand). In fact, a single location in Northern Ireland could have been used to film several different scenes, across seasons. This is all the more clear in Tollymore Forest Park - an hour-and a-half drive from Belfast.

Robbie Atkinson, with Game of Thrones Tours, happens to be an archery coach, GoT extra and my tour guide for the day, and, peppers the conversation with interesting trivia as we walk into the state forest park. "This forest is said to be where C.S. Lewis got his inspiration for The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe," he tells us as we drink in the sight of pine trees as far as the eye can see. "Another famous author who has visited these woods? Tolkien, author of The Lord of the Rings!"
Of course, I'm interested in another medieval fantasy at the moment. It's hard to believe considering the abundant greenery throughout the forest (even the barks are a shade of green!), but a crater set in here was actually the filming site for the Haunted Forest, North of the Wall - a scene so bizarrely white and cold, one could get the shivers just watching it. "In order to transform this forest into the 'winter wonderland', a large tarp had to be placed on the forest floor, as far as the eye can see," explains Robbie. "No mean feat, because of the number of trees and rocks. After that, it was covered by paper snow to give it that frozen look."

The entire process took 10 weeks - for a scene that would last only a few minutes. It gave me a glimpse into the effort that was put in for the tiniest details - not to mention a new-found respect for the show.
Just a 10-minute walk away from the Haunted Forest is where another famous scene was shot - one from GoT's pilot. It was here that Ned Stark discovered the direwolf puppies that his children would end up adopting. Fun fact: a temporary wooden bridge was built for that scene alone!
Coming home to Winterfell

© Tourism Northern Ireland
 
Castle Ward is where it all began. As I entered the 18th century National Trust property, I had trouble placing it within the show. William Van Der Kells of Winterfell Tours helped me piece together the puzzle. After a warm greeting and distributing fur lined cloaks to wear (all part of the GoT experience), we were shown how Castle Ward's historic farmyard transformed into. Winterfell in Season One (with a little help from CGI, of course).

"It all started in 2005, when we got an email from the crew asking if we had any location that would interest them," explains William. "After that, there was a series of meetings and emails, and they told us they would come over to check out the property 'incognito'. A week and a half later, three guys came over in a helicopter - so much for incognito!"
With the property having shorelines, forests and castles (two of them!), this was an obvious location for the filming of the Stark family's home. But that's not all fans have to look forward to - today, Castle Ward also has Winterfell Tours, an interactive experience with a number of activities. Under the wise gaze of William, I picked up the bow and arrow in the exact spot Jon Snow, Robb Stark and Bran Stark practise their archery in Season One. With my cloak whipping in the wind, and William's chants (Pull! Hold! Strike!), there was no need to use my imagination - I could have blinked and woken up in Westeros. There's also axe-throwing and cycle tours!

Keeping up with the theme, lunch is a medieval-style banquet with reindeer skins and a fireplace. After a tiring day of archery and axe throwing, I devour the hearty beef stew and thick bread, and then go in for seconds. Dessert is a bowl of fruit - exactly like they would have done it in the good 'ol days.

Speaking of medieval meals, another must-have for GoT fans can be found at The Cuan, located just a 10-minute drive away - famous for being the cast's accommodation while they filmed in Castle Ward, and currently a location of the first GoT door! I didn't quite have time to stay the night but I did indulge in their King's Banquet - butter shaped like the Stark's sigil, honey-roasted chicken, cod cakes, roasted carrots, potatoes and gravy. Licking my fingers, I can't help but think I'd fit right into medieval times - if I can survive the wars, murders and betrayal. Judging by my archery skills, that isn't likely.
GOT: The Touring Exhibition

© Tourism Northern Ireland
This month also saw the launch of the Game of Thrones: The Touring Exhibition in the Titanic Exhibition Centre in Belfast. It's only on until September 1 and, as a GoT fan, I'm adamant that I cannot miss it. Which is how I find myself walking over to Belfast's Titanic Quarter one chilly morning. It starts with a bang - within the dark exhibition, mist hangs heavy in the air along with occasional battle cries from screens. The highlight (for me) comes from the audio guide I purchase which offers behind-the-scenes-information on the props and costumes. To hear costume designer Michele Clapton - who won an Emmy for her work on GoT - describe the hidden messages behind the dress Cersei wore to Jeffrey's wedding (the muted colour symbolises her receding power, the neckline both strong and vulnerable) or Daenerys' style evolution (adapting pants and boots from her Dothraki days along with elegant dresses that are more popular in King's Landing) is nothing short of magic. There are interactive elements too - get a chance to scale The Wall or put your face up on the Hall of Faces. Who knows - you could even get a shot at the Iron Throne.
Where it will all end
Any fan worth their salt has probably been hearing teasers of the last season and, while the plot is very hush-hush for now, we know that war (and winter) is coming. There has been talk of a battle sequence so large, it took 55 nights to film in sub-zero temperatures. In an interview with Stephen Colbert, actor Kit Harington also let slip that this battle scene occurred in the icy temperatures of mid-winter Belfast.

If all that is true, we can hope to see more sights, sounds and experiences of GoT in the years to come from Northern Ireland. Till then, I'm going to be waiting impatiently for that final battle, and getting ready to bend the knee to the one true ruler of the seven kingdoms.
(Game of Thrones airs at 10pm OSN weekly, starting Monday 15 April).
janice@khaleejtimes.com