NY Fashion Week: Tommy Hilfiger, Donna Karan, Diane von Furstenberg

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Tommy Hilfiger transforms the ramp into a football field; Donna Karan throws up a party vibe; Furstenberg seduces fashionistas - the highlights from the NY Fashion Week

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Published: Wed 18 Feb 2015, 9:36 PM

Last updated: Mon 7 Aug 2023, 5:08 PM

Hilfiger’s colourful kickoff

Luckily, it was an indoor football game.

On a frigid day in Manhattan, guests at Tommy Hilfiger’s splashy runway show arrived on Monday to find the cavernous Park Avenue Armory transformed into a football field. Sure, the turf was artificial, but that was a small price to pay for not being outside. Yardage was marked out, with each end zone bearing a huge “HILFIGER.” Naturally, the prime seats were at the 50-yard line.

After a huge monitor hanging over the runway — er, field — counted down the final 30 seconds to kickoff, models began streaming out of an entry marked “Locker Room.” Their attire was a whimsical riff on football wear, down to the lace-up platform ankle boots that resembled football cleats.

In a collection aimed at channelling what the label called “an American Love Story inspired by Ali MacGraw,” the colours of burgundy and navy gave the collection a vintage college football feel. There were capes, duffel coats, and colourful sweatshirts bearing the number 30 — to mark 30 years of the Hilfiger brand.

There were fluffy, furry football jackets. There were varsity-type sweaters and bags with football appliques. Huge furry hats, appropriate for the day’s weather, accompanied many of the outfits. And there were skirts and dresses galore, pleated like cheerleader skirts — in casual fabrics or, for dressier occasions, in chiffon or velvet.

Hilfiger, ever the showman, came out at the end carrying his own football helmet, jogging along the field and waving to the crowd, which included singer Rita Ora.

Donna Karan shows New York at night

Karan’s New York City never ceases to inspire. For fall, she interpreted the towering architecture into sculpted origami designs and offered sparkly gold lame worthy of a really great party.

In metallic brocades and gun metal silk, Karan’s signature line did the glamour of the city’s skyline justice with geometric planes of fabric that flowed loosely on dresses and coats. Touches of organza danced down the runway against her backdrop of the city at night.

Gold glam not your thing? The collection was punctuated by tuxedo detailing on several tops and trousers. How does she keep the New York City story fresh season after season?

“New York for me means the world,” she said. “It’s about where women are at today.”

Herrera makes waves

Carolina Herrera usually makes waves at Fashion Week. This time around, she did it with a splash.

Moved by the element of water, Herrera sent out dresses that fluttered with long metallic droplet embellishment and prints evoking ripples and ocean sprays. A touch of crimson red popped among the muted whites, blues and greys, in a touch of alligator skin on a multi-textured wide scarf and full-skin short looks for cocktails and day.

“This collection I have been calling ‘Making Waves,’ because it’s all about the elements of water. It’s the waves. It’s all the form and colours that the water has in different aspects. And I love it because it has so much movement, and all the materials I designed especially with the water in mind,” Herrera said in a backstage interview.

As if to ease her crowd’s wintery angst in the frigid weather, Herrera paired a cozy sweater with cashmere pants and fox gloves. She used a swan motif in embroidery on another cashmere top in black, worn with wool felt pants in ivory.

“I like women to look glamorous,” Herrera said. “Why not?”

50 shades of DVF

Diane von Furstenberg says it’s a mere coincidence that her runway show took place on opening weekend of Fifty Shades of Grey, but there was nothing coincidental about the “seduction” theme that came through loud and clear on the catwalk.

It was all about lace, skin, satin and yes, the colour red — which, paired with black, gave DVF just the sensibility she wanted for this season. “The show is called seduction,” the designer said. “It’s THAT woman. ... During the day she commands the room, and at night she inspires fantasy. It’s very seductive.”

At show’s end, Von Furstenberg took not a victory bow but a victory lap, sauntering up and down the U-shaped runway and blowing kisses to guests, who included Kesha, Paris Hilton, and of course Vogue editor Anna Wintour.

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