Fashion: New kings of the ramp

Fashion houses need to change their creative directors to ensure they stay relevant, fresh and on the pulse. But most of the time, it is a win-win. The fashion house receives a new life, and the designer becomes fashion's new darling. Meet the industry's new kids at the helm.

Fashion is all about change since it craves all things new. This is the very nature of the industry. But it is also about heritage, longevity and stability. Louis Vuitton is the industry's most profitable house. Founded in 1854, I am sure when Louis Vuitton designed his first trunk, he had no idea that his niche label would become the world's most recognised luxury fashion house. One of the oldest fashion houses still in operation is Lanvin, founded in 1889, by Jeanne Marie Lanvin. This is the paradox of fashion. It loves to be cutting edge, yet it values, respects and needs tradition. Hence, we have seen the revival of labels such as Balmain, Schiaparelli and Vionnet. It is this contradiction that gives fashion its complexity and its socio-cultural relevance. Look through the archives of any great fashion house, and it will be as informative as reading a history book.
In the way newspapers need to change their editors ever so often, fashion houses need to change their creative directors to ensure they stay relevant, fresh and on the pulse. Three years ago, Dior announced that Raf Simons would be their new creative head, taking over from one of the industry's most recognised faces, John Galliano. Ever since, fashion has been in a state of constant flux - and this year has been about an all change. With new creative directors at Gucci, Pucci, Roberto Cavalli, Versace's Versus, DKNY and Oscar de la Renta, the industry is full of new energy. Perhaps fashion's need for a new order talks of a deeper search for a new order that is happening in the economy, in culture and in society. For some, the change of guard is not always as successful as expected. Case in point: DKNY. In the 1990s, Donna Karan's bridge label DKNY with its sporty take on high fashion could do no wrong. Of late, DKNY has lost its edge and so new blood has been brought in to give this label a second innings. The brand's creator Donna Karan recently handed over the reins to Dao Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne whose own label Public School is known for its cool edgy Manhattan style. Their debut line showed a couple of weeks ago and did not receive the warm welcome that DKNY's parent company Louis Vuitton-Moet Hennessy were hoping for.
But most times, it is a win-win. The fashion house receives a new life, and the designer becomes fashion's new darling. Tom Ford, John Galliano and Marc Jacobs all became industry stalwarts thanks to the tenures at established fashion houses. With their being so many new names this season, it is confusing to remember who is who. Here are the five names you need to know.
The 'New Kids':
Paul Copping:
At the end of last year, fashion lost one of its all-time legends, Oscar de la Renta. He was one of the "American Great Designers" and with his death announcement came the news that De la Renta had already handpicked his successor. Peter Copping, the previous artistic director of Nina Ricci, known for his very feminine take on style, seemed to be born for the job. At the most recent edition of New York Fashion Week, he took to the ramp for the second time as de la Renta's successor and proved he is "Oscar Worthy". His personality may be very different form De la Renta's suave flamboyance but his designs have all the sophistication that women want from this label.
Anthony Vaccarello:
Versus maybe the second line of Versace but it is one of London Fashion Week's hottest tickets. Donatella Versace herself chose Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello to be the creative head for this label and it seemed she knew what she was doing. His first outing for the label happened at London Fashion Week. He married a love of tailoring with the sensual street style that Versus is known for. He toned down the flashy, but remains true to Versus's love of fierceness. This combination just may make this second line become one of the most-sought-after labels of next year.
Alessandro Michele:
You knew 2015 was going to be a year of change when, in January, Gucci announced that after a decade Frida Giannini would be stepping down as creative director, and Alessandro Michele would be its new designer. He has been at the helm for just over six months, and made it known there was a new era at Gucci by holding his Spring/Summer 2016 show at a new venue. His show last week was his third catwalk collection for the label it confirmed that Gucci is once again setting the fashion agenda. The Spring/Summer 2016 collection had all punch and the power one expects from Gucci, yet this more pretty and geeky approach to style gave the house a new fresh take on Italian glamour. Pussy bow blouses, geek glasses, map prints, floral embroidered biker jackets. There is a definitely a new energy at Gucci. And the fact that Gucci will be one of the designer's of choice for Madonna's Rebel Heart is an indication that Alessandra is on his way to becoming a household name.
Peter Dundas:
If you did not already know this name, then you are not a real fashion girl. Having headed Pucci for the last seven years, he revived this Italian label known for its penchant for colour. This year, he handed the mantle over to Massimo Giorgetti. Massimo's own label MSMG has cult status. His take on Pucci, however, did not live up to the power, punch and panache of Dundas's Pucci. Dundas, now creative director at Cavalli, proved he is one of the best in his generation. There were high expectations from his debut showing from the larger-than-life label. Denims and biker jackets gave a new youthful glamour and thigh high slits micro miniskirts and animal prints gave it the flamboyance we expect from Roberto Cavalli. Dundas proved whether it's Pucci or Cavalli, he has magic in his hands. Dundas has more than arrived, he is here to stay
Alexander Wang:
Now, this may seem like an odd choice, as he showed his last collection for Balenciaga this week where his designs for one of fashion's most respected houses have been lacklustre. But at the same time, last month at New York Fashion Week he celebrated 10 years of his own label. He has caught the attention of fashion from his first collection thanks to the way he combines a feel of sport luxe with clean minimalism. His clothes fit real women, and he is a firm red carpet favourite. Fringes, denims, bomber jackets and mesh - he stayed with his signature street style for another collection that ticked all the boxes. And while his style may not have worked at Balenciaga, he will always be a designer to look out for even if things did not work out for him at one of the great fashion houses.
The writer is Khaleej Times Consulting Fashion Editor

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