The party's on at Milan Fashion Week

Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani present new menswear collections



By AP

Published: Sun 15 Jan 2023, 11:28 AM

Last updated: Sun 15 Jan 2023, 11:36 AM

Milan is ready to party, with menswear shows for next spring and winter focused on nighttime tailoring with playful accents. Think sparkles and glitter, fun silhouettes that invite shadow dancing, and sexy peeks at skin with tailoring tricks once reserved for the female wardrobe.

Some highlights from Saturday’s shows on the second day of Milan Fashion Week.

FLY AWAY WITH EMPORIO ARMANI

Giorgio Armani has been on the global fashion map for more than four decades. His latest collection for Emporio Armani traced a literal map of his adopted Milan, with models walking the perimeter of a circular runway giving a bird's-eye view of a map of the fashion capital’s historic center.

The collection was inspired by aviation, and there were tailoring traces from the golden era of flight when dandies like Charles Lindbergh made history with solo crossings of the Atlantic.

A belted gray jumpsuit with a furry collar, aviator’s cap and thick boots set the tone. Once he lands, there are muted plaid suits with trousers cropped just above the boot — the invention of the season. Gear is stowed in satchels and nautical bags.

Cozy knitwear paired with leather trousers and jacket, some with antique finishes, cut an adventurous silhouette. But the real dandy comes out in colorful daywear, including a beautiful wrap coat in elegant camel, velvet jackets in deep hues and silken shirts worn with foulards in bright accent colors like magenta, purple and mauve.

Leather harnesses and utility belts added an edge. Pouches are belted on top of boots. Mirrored aviator glasses complete the look.

Armani, 88, good-humoredly picked up a pouch that had dropped from a model as he greeted the crowd at the end of the show.

DOLCE & GABBANA BACK TO BLACK

If you just looked at colour, it was back to basics at Dolce&Gabbana: The entire collection for next winter was in mostly black monochromes, all the better for nighttime play. Gray and white monochromes played a supporting role.

While light on bling, the looks were anything but basic. Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana created a collection built around tailoring, with the late-night synchronic club beats in mind.

Long overcoats or dramatic capes will get you to the club door. Inside, men’s corsetry, obi belts and cummerbunds cinch the waist, a silhouette that is mimicked in the dramatic hourglass tailoring of coats and jackets with curved waistlines and broad shoulders. A strobe light picks up the sparkles and glitter on garments, and sheer tops and muscle knitwear show off physiques.

Machine Gun Kelly and Italian singer Blanco were among the designing duo's front-row guests.


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