The evolution of Fashion Forward

We review Fashion Forward Season Six and let you know who the talk of the town is.

The sixth season of Fashion Forward (FFWD) held at Madinat Jumeira from October 22 - 24, wasn't short of fashion bloggers, editors, writers and fashion enthusiasts bustling from one show to the next. Eyes were open and cameras were out to catch the latest in local and regional talent and the event didn't fall short of many people's expectations.
We have to say the most exciting element of FFWD this season was the educational focus on the business of fashion and building of a brand. As we have seen in recent years, there isn't a shortage of creative minds and talent in the region. However, practical advice for the new generation of designers on how to build their brands at home and expose their work to potential buyers abroad, hasn't always been available. Two of the essential talks that helped propel these ideas were by The Business of Fashion (BoF) founder, Imran Amed and photographer and fashion blogger pioneer, Scott Schuman of The Sartorialist. Both gave an insightful perspective into the fashion world and the necessary tools needed to scratch the surface of the international fashion scene.
Not surprisingly, FFWD wasn't short of design talent and names we've come to know and appreciate over the last few years. House of Nomad, Madiyah Al Sharqi and Michael Cinco didn't fail to impress us with their new collections. Again, exciting to see was that local and regional brands are growing in versatility, giving us a clearer perspective of the changing fashion landscape in Dubai. Intriguing to see was what the majority of designers were telling us.
Fashion is definitely a living and breathing thing. More than just an industry, it personifies a moment in time and the culture of a society. It's about the right now and the soon to be. The designers who struck a chord with us from the moment their first look hit the runway, all seemed to be telling us a similar story. The general consensus of designers in the region is that less is more. There was definitely an increase in collections consisting of separates, easy to mix and match, which in turn means more choices for the consumer. Everything was about being easy, simple and not trying too hard. As we might have seen in the not too distant past, there was nothing extremely tight fitting, hundreds of glittery sequins weren't blinding us on the runways, high heels and piles of makeup were a rare sight, and models weren't adorned with too many accessories but appeared clean faced, natural and dewy. OTT is slowly making its way out of Dubai and we say, good riddance. The exciting, new and innovative regional designers are telling women not to try too hard.
One of the first designers that exemplified these ideas was UAE born Fatema Fardan. It's worthy to note that for a young designer Fardan seems to understand her aesthetic and has a clear and distinct voice. Each item and look on the runway worked as an individual piece but she was consistent in her collection as well that depicted a self-confident woman who isn't afraid to be a little different.
The Starch Foundation founded by Rabih Kayrouz, Tala Hajjar and in collaboration with Solidere, is a non-profit organisation that helps launch emerging Lebanese designers. This year at FFWD, their designers Joe Arida, Nour Najem and Mira Hayek left us wanting to see more of their innovative, deceptively simple looks - from sheer fabrics over exaggerated polka dots in feminine silhouettes, to a tactful use of patterns and layering. Models were barefoot, hair was simple, accessories minimal, giving more attention to the quality of clothes and tailoring.
Even Amato pulled back from the extremely fantastical and theatrical pieces we've expected to see from the avant-garde label and designer Furne One. Don't get us wrong, the pieces and the show this year were still distinctly his, and we for one weren't left disappointed. Yet, there was a welcome feminine simplicity in the debut of his ready to wear collection that deserved standing ovation. The designer closed this season of FFWD not only with a bang but with spring. The runway was transformed into a Marie Antoinette inspired garden with models reinforcing the theme of spring in pastel colours, a fairytale elegance and beautifully simple, but by no means understated, silhouettes and shapes. Looking past the extravagant set up and make up of the models that followed the theme, the clothes themselves could be worn cleanly if styled correctly with the colours and feminine patterns making a statement all on their own.
One shortcoming in FFWD this season we have to say is that there was a clear shortage of new and innovative designers in menswear. Despite this, it was pleasing to see that, as was hoped, there is a real evolution in thought and quality happening in front of our eyes in the regional fashion landscape.
maan@khaleejtimes.com