India calling

Amazon India Fashion Week is back in the spotlight as it kicks off today; we bring you a preview of what's hot and happening

Fashion's focus moves from Paris to Delhi as Amazon India Fashion Week starts today. It has been 13 years since India saw its first fashion week. While it may not be one of the major international fashion capitals of the world, within the region, India has become very important. Indian fashion has developed its own handwriting with Manish Arora and Rahul Mishra becoming regulars on the Paris Fashion Week calendars. Mishra is presenting an installation at India Fashion Week.
With stores from Harvey Nichols to Boutique 1 retailing Indian fashion, India's connect to the Middle East is very strong. Kaftan style shapes now are a part of every Indian designer's repertoire and these pieces are 'Made for Arabia'. Buyers from Dubai's Sauce, Silk Land and Vesimi are expected to be at the event.
This edition of India Fashion Week moves to a new location, at the NSIC Ground. This is also home to the India Art Fair and India Design ID marking how India Fashion Week has really become an event celebrating the growing business of Indian fashion.
Here are the five highlights of the week:
Fashion's New Weave: The opening show of India Fashion Week is the most talked about show of the week. Sanjay Garg's five-year-old label has given the woven sari a new modern twist. He respects tradition, yet understands the need to be au courant. Be it actor turned style icon Soha Ali Khan or India's trendsetting fashion editor Nonita Kalra, women are back to wearing weaves thanks to the new contemporary language he has given weaves. Today no girl's sari collection is complete without his Nandi sari. This season he looks at 'Mashru'. A weave that is over a century old, 'Mashru' comes from the Arabic word, 'permitted'. Mughal emperors by tradition were only allowed to wear cotton, but wanted to robe themselves in the sumptuousness of Indian silk. So this unique weave is silk on the outside and cotton on the inside. The pinstripe effect it makes gives it a distinction that has an on-trend appeal. (Sanjay Garg: 4pm, October 7)
The Editor's Edit: This season the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCII) has several under the radar designers participating for the first time. The list includes Love Birds, Ragni Ahuja, Anavila and Shalini James. Anavila linen saris have become a style staple with the fashion set in India and Love Birds' anti-fit, clean, shaped ensembles are what you will see fashion editors wear. These designers represent some of the best labels of the New Modern Indian Aesthetic. (Anavila: 5.15pm, October 7; Love Birds, 4pm, October 10)
Talk the Talk: When India Fashion Week first started there was a real emphasis on education and communication. Every morning there would be seminars held to start conversations in the industry. As fashion week attendees unfortunately cared more about parties, than morning discussions, these were soon phased out. Now as Indian fashion has matured, there is a need for these sessions to be revived. Sunil Sethi, President, FDCI says, "From trend forecasts, cultural identity, a nationalistic focus through crafts, the Fashion Forward talks are a sincere attempt to offer a nuanced approach to things that get hidden behind the curtain of glamour."
WSGN, the world's leading fashion service will be at the fashion weeks and its chief creative Officer Catriona Macab and Trend Specialist, Anupreet Bhui as well as Amazon India's creative director Narendra Kumar, will be there to talk forecasting. A real insider's look at fashion, these will add some real substance to this event of style. (The WSGN Fashion Forward Talk, 12pm, October 9)
Kolkata Calling: The City of Joy is home to some of India's most talented designers be it Sabyasachi, Anamika Khanna or Kallol Datta. Anamika Khanna really is the designer who sets the bar, when it comes to Indian fashion, from the lehngha sari to the cape, she infuses a new energy into fashion each season. Anamika does not follow trends, she sets them. She is also fashion's most low key and in some ways inconsistent designer, as she does not show every season. But when she does show, you know it is going to be special. After a few seasons she is back at India Fashion Week with a ready to wear collection. Her show is presented by Spaces, Home and Beyond and luxury lifestyle décor brand. Anamika's current festive collection will be available in Dubai next week at K/S Diwali Showcase at the Montgomerie Hotel on Monday. ( Anamika Khanna, 9.30pm, October 9)
Born in Benares: Indian weaves have been the focus of fashion for a while now. And wearing India on your sleeve, has never been more fashionable. At the fashion week's grand finale 16 designers have been asked to celebrate the weaves of Benares. For centuries Benares (Varanasi) has been known for its beautiful weaves. Though even international fashion houses such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Alexander McQueen have used the beautiful fabrics of the city in their collections, like with many handmade textile crafts, the weavers are literally hanging on to their livelihoods by threads. Fashion is waking up to its responsibility. From Abraham and Thakore who are known for combining traditional Indian crafts with a modern and very international aesthetic, to the mistresses of red carpet Gauri and Nanika, Benares' beautiful textiles will be given a new repertoire with this showing. (The Grand Finale, 9.30pm, October 11)

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