Tropical Fever: How a label from a 'non-fashion' city gains an international cult following

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Tropical Fever: How a label from a non-fashion city gains an international cult following
Johanna Ortiz

"Be aware of the world, but always come back to what you know, what you love and what you believe in. If you are authentic, your customer will find you."

By Sujata Assomull

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Published: Fri 13 Jan 2017, 7:12 PM

Last updated: Fri 13 Jan 2017, 9:21 PM

Latin America has always been known for its style, craftsmanship and love of colour, but it is only recently that the region became an area of focus for fashion. Johanna Ortiz is pretty much responsible for putting 'Made in Columbia' on the fashion map. If Brazil has its Havaianas, and Venezuela has Carolina Herrera of course, then Columbia has precious skin accessory designer Nancy Gonzalez, Haider Ackermann, shoemaker Edgardo Osorio of Aquazzura fame and Johanna Ortiz. What makes Gonzalez and Ortiz stand out is that their labels are crafted in Columbia and so are truly home-grown. Ortiz's feminine, flirty clothing is full of Latin American flair, but the way she balances this with functional style thanks to her constant references to men's shirting details has made her label a hot favourite with fashion's elite. With a celebrity client list that includes Olivia Palermo, Sarah Jessica Parker and Jessica Alba, Ortiz has captured the imagination of fashion folk - and when Bergdorf Goodman, the store that is considered to be the epitome of elegance in New York recently dedicated a window to the label. you knew Ortiz had arrived.


The e-tailer that gave Ortiz her fashion debut, Moda Operandi, is a luxury fashion website where you can pre-order collections straight off the runway; its co-founder Lauren Santo Domingo is respected in the industry for her eye for new talent. Johanna Ortiz was exclusively launched on the website in 2014. Ortiz returns with another Moda Operandi exclusive: a high summer capsule collection which you can pre-order now and expect delivery after May. Since resort wear is Ortiz's strength, this capsule collection is bound to be the go to collection for those who know their style this summer. Says she, "As a woman, I have no use for sweaters in July. So I'm trying to own that delivery in a way that makes sense for my customers and me. High summer felt more in line with what the Johanna Ortiz woman wants." The collection has a Caribbean feel thanks to the many trips the resort wear designer has made to the islands. The collection has the ruffles, bows, eyelets, bare shoulders and tropical colours you associate with the Columbian label. Prints and polka are offset with solid pieces in blues, whites and blacks and as always, it has a feel of balance. Her signature sartorial touch ensures that the frills and bows never overwhelm. But what makes this collection extra special is the inclusion of swimwear. The sort you will want to wear both on and off the beach. Says Ortiz, "I started as a swimwear designer. It was a natural fit as a Colombian. So the new swim pieces bring the brand full circle." And of course, it's the swimwear that is fast-selling.

What makes the Ortiz label perfect for travel is that all her designs have a day-to-night appeal - they are day resort pieces with an evening spirit. Ortiz herself says this collection is one that will see its wearers from the "beach to the bar". To turn them from daywear to evening glam all you need is bigger earrings, higher heels and brighter lipstick, says the designer. Of course, as a designer from Latin America it comes as no surprise that she enjoys a show of skin - and the shoulder is considered to be an Ortiz trademark. While some in fashion feel the focus on the shoulder has now passed its sell-by date, Ortiz says, "Who knew the world was so full of beautiful shoulders! Luckily we have an entire body to work with, but I'll always have a soft spot for a daring décolletage." So be prepared for some plunging necklines in her high summer capsule collection.

It was a no-brainer that Ortiz chose Moda Operandi to partner with for this launch - it's where she started her career and she credits the growth e-tailer as helping recognise young talent. Says Ortiz, "The less reliant young designers are on others to give them a platform, the more authentic their design and aesthetic develops. Direct access to the customer is an invaluable asset." Moda Operandi has also been pivotal in giving designers from this region a boost having worked closely with Rami Al Ali and Hussein Bazaza. Ortiz advises, "I think the world is so connected now that I don't feel any disadvantage by not being based in one of the major four fashion cities. If anything, I think it makes my own style feel very personal and specific. I think that has played an important role in women's strong connection to the brand. Be aware of the world, but always come back to what you know, what you love and what you believe in. If you are authentic, your customer will find you." Though the designer has a cult following in this region (she retails in stores in Bahrain, Kuwait, Qatar and Saudi Arabia), she has not been to any city in the Middle East yet. It is on her travel wishlist though, as Ortiz believes the Middle East could be a great source of inspiration particularly when it comes to prints. The success of a designer like Ortiz is an inspiration for designers from this region - as it proves you no longer need to be from the big four - Milan, London, New York or Paris, to make it in the world of fashion.
- www.modaoperandi.com


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