Restaurant review: Cocktail Kitchen

If good food and relaxed ambience are what you are looking for, then Cocktail Kitchen is where you should be headed

 
Maybe I've been living under a rock, but it's only of late that I've noticed the approach to some of the restaurants and dives at hotels - in JLT and Marina, at least. And a lot of them seem to be through parking lots tucked away at the rear. I don't know how long this hideaway positioning has been a trend (or if it even is) - but I like it. In a place like Dubai, this non-showy buildup is refreshing. And Cocktail Kitchen (or #CKDXB, as I was told to tag a picture I took), falls in the same category, in the basement of Armada Tower 2, JLT cluster P.
I first heard of the slightly classier-than-casual dining joint (CK hereon) in JLT two months ago, when my (former) yoga teacher sang its praises on Facebook and hashtagged the daylights out of it. Maybe the same server gave her the quick branding pitch as well. Since that enthusiastic feed, I made a note to try it out.
I live on the other side of Shaikh Zayed Road and, at the risk of sounding like an upstart, usually veer towards restaurants only in Marina - better buzz, better view and generally less dead than JLT. But since I was under the influence of said yoga teacher, I thought it may be worth a visit. And since CK is walking distance from the flat, that's what we (finally) did - took the metro over the bridge and (I) tottered down in heels because they say it's fancy casual dining.
I'd made a reservation for 7.45pm on a Monday, when people were still saying 'Happy New Year' to each other. We had 15 minutes left for happy hour to end. So there was a bit of a scramble as we sank into our grey-cushioned chairs and took in the one-page menu and quickly decided on the aperitifs.
There were six of us - a family of four, husband and self - which I was chuffed about, because more food would be sampled than if there were just two stomachs. (The problem with food reviewing when there are only two, I find, is that too much gets wasted).
Okay, getting back to #CKDXB - I had checked the menu online earlier and decided on Fig and Blue Cheese Bruschetta (was as good as it sounded) and the Mushroom Risotto (anything with truffle oil works), and a side of Sautéed Kale (no one else wanted a bite). My meal was excellent.
We were having a good time - great company, great conversation, and nobody's food was a letdown. On the table, there were - in order of appearance - two servings each of Chicken Croquettes and Fig and Blue Cheese Bruschetta. For mains, we had the Bloody Mary Beef (slow-cooked short ribs), two portions of Eggs in a Nest, and another of the salmon. There was an exceptionally light Cauliflower and Hazelnut Purée, which everyone - whether or not you like cauliflower - should try. Next time, I'll probably go back and try the mashed potatoes to compare which was lighter. You can make an entire meal out of the sides too, each for Dh25, whether the kale or the hazelnut puree or the potatoes, 'shrooms or fries.
For dessert, we got the Tiramisu, and Chocolate Lover's Delight and passed it around the table. With the Tiramisu, there was a moment of drama when the server first laid out a plate in front of me with only berries on it. Where's my Tiramisu?! In the dim light, I had to really bring my chin to the plate to take a closer look and believe that there was no deconstructed-invisible tiramisu act going on. He was deliberately playing with us, and laid the tiramisu in a tall ice cream dish only a good 15 seconds later. Anticipation yielded rewards and there it was: a case of more excellent flavours - again, light like the hazelnut purée. 
The total bill came to about Dh200 per head, maybe a little more. And I'm thinking: despite the tottering across the road, for this calibre of food, I could easily do this mini trek to a basement joint every time someone comes to visit.  
nivriti@khaleejtimes.com
 

• Food and Dining