Get into the right Spirit

Spirito, the newly opened Brazilian joint over at Media One Hotel, intrigues with its unusual interiors and exotic eats

Living in Dubai often means we're spoilt for choice when it comes to cuisine. Whether you're craving tapas from Spain or laksa from Malaysia - it's all there, either in a restaurant at a posh hotel or a reasonable hidden gem tucked away at the corner of your street. But Brazilian food is still catching on, despite the churrascaria craze that hit a few years ago - probably the reason Spirito, over at Media One Hotel opened to much hype. Well, that and the super 50 per cent discount on food they had during their first month of opening.
The discount may be over now, but that didn't deter us in the slightest when it came to sampling their fare. My dining companion and I arrived on a busy Friday evening only to find the place completely packed (point to note, make a reservation, and don't be more than 20 minutes late for it, especially if you're going on a weekend).
Upon arriving, we were greeted by the sight of low chandeliers, walls and a ceiling awash with colour, and upbeat salsa music, lending the place an energetic feel aimed to transport you straight to the famous party scenes of Rio. Interestingly, everything about the place is very deliberately mismatched - from the chairs and tables, right down to the plates. The entire place is what I'd always imagined Professor Trelawney's divination classroom (from the Harry Potter series) looked like - intriguing, but not always convenient.
Having arrived at a rather busy time, we were seated over at a coffee table surrounded by sofas - perfect for a lounge, but not the best place for a hearty three-course meal. Still, the music was catchy and the ambience laid-back, so we decided to get into the festa mood and let our hair down.
A waitress in harem pants and a tank top (not really Brazilian, but quite funky nonetheless) was happy to help us with our orders - and we did need a bit of help: not only because the dishes aren't exactly simple to pronounce, but because the menu is rather varied. Brazilian food is heavily influenced by European, African and even Japanese cuisines - so it's not altogether surprising to see uncommon pairings when it comes to their chow. Just skimming through the starters, we found everything from Banana Frita - banana fritters served with a guava dip - to Ceviche De Bacalhau, which turned out to be a ceviche of cod, banana and cashew nuts.
My dining partner and I finally settled on Camaro Alho E Oleo, pan fried chilli prawns that came highly recommended, Frango A Passarinhi (chicken wings) and the Spirito Picanha Sliders. The sliders were just perfect - the delectable flavour of smoky beef blending in with cream cheese - and we found ourselves agreeing to come back just to sample them again. I personally loved the simple, succulent texture of the jumbo prawns as well, but the chicken wings came across as the usual run-of-the-mill fare - not too impressive.  
I was starting to feel a bit full at this point and opted for the Carioca De Frango Piri Piri - a Brazilian bread dish - for my main. The soft, toasted bread, served with a generous helping of piri piri chicken, roasted peppers and cream cheese made for a satisfying, albeit messy, meal. My dining companion, on the other hand, decided to sample something truly Brazilian and opted for the recommended Vatapa De Camarao, a rich coconut stew with shrimp, that came with a portion of rice. Piping hot and flavoursome, the stew seemed almost like an Asian delicacy with its thick coconut base. Delicioso!
Sated, we decided to split dessert and were, once again, struck by the varied selection, which included everything from an interesting pineapple-chilli mousse to a chocolate-chilli trifle. In the end, the Branco Fondant De Chocolate, a cashew nut and white chocolate concoction, won the day and we were more than happy to tuck into the warm cake, served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a generous helping of pineapple jam. The chocolaty taste didn't really come through, but it was wholesome and satisfying, so that didn't bother us too much.
Spirito isn't your everyday kind of hangout; everything about it, from the décor to the delicacies, screams 'unique'. It may not be the best place for those who prefer sticking to the basics, but if you ever feel the need to ditch your regular haunts, just take a trip down. Much like visiting Brazil itself, you just know you're in for a bit of an adventure.  janice@khaleejtimes.com
What we liked: The energetic feel of the place; the sliders, the wholesome shrimp stew and the dessert
What we didn't like: The seating can get a bit uncomfortable
Cost for two: Dh400
Contact: Level 9, Media One Hotel Falak Street, Dubai, Tel: 04-4212679
 
 
 

• Food and Dining