Does this Dubai restaurant have the most creative dishes?

Roe Deer Tartare or Monkfish Cheeks, anyone?

by

Janice Rodrigues

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Published: Fri 26 Oct 2018, 12:00 AM

Last updated: Fri 26 Oct 2018, 2:00 AM

"Why Folly?" It's the first question I have for the restaurant manager when he greets me. After all, Folly, in my books, is an odd name for a restaurant. The manager, however, is well prepared. "Folly means foolishness... and it's as good a word as any. It's playful, fun, and has a touch of madness." As I comb through the leatherbound menu at Folly by Nick and Scott, these words make more and more sense. Roe Deer Tartare, Devon Crab with Basil and Seaweed, Fried Bread with Sage, Onion and Spelt and Crispy Hen's Egg are just some of the dishes on their truly creative menu. This is not your ordinary chicken-and-steak kind of place. It certainly lives up to expectations we have of Nick Alvis and Scott Price, who worked for Gordon Ramsay for 15 years before starting their own enterprise, and who know how to get diners outside their comfort zones.

The interiors are lovely too. We traipsed up a wooden staircase to find exposed brick walls, plenty of wooden motifs, golden lighting and stunning views of the Souk Madinat Jumeirah. Couples are sure to enjoy this romantic vista, but it's also great for intimate dinner parties. Just want to catch up over drinks? They have two outdoor terraces overlooking water views. More than satisfied with the views, we got started with appetisers and mains - Monkfish Cheeks with Paprika and Lemon, Lamb Saddle with Pine Nuts and more found their way to our table. There's something for all adventurous diners, with a touch of class and exclusivity to whet your appetite.

TASTE
Folly by Nick and Scott isn't your typical restaurant - every dish has ingredients you wouldn't normally see paired together. Yet, most of them work. Try their Lamb Saddle or Monkfish Cheeks. I had a chocolate and ginger creation for dessert - and I'm still drooling thinking about it.
AMBIENCE
The Souk Madinat Jumeirah has always been a place that impresses, and the views at Folly steal the show (so try to grab a table outside). With the Burj al Arab on one side, water views on the other, lively music and golden lighting, there's a lot to look at and appreciate.

SERVICE
Our waiter, George, was more than just helpful, offering suggestions when needed and taking time to show us around the terraces after dinner. There's also a sommelier who is happy to give suggestions when it comes to drink pairings and is very knowledgeable about the menu.

PRESENTATION
This is one of the main areas where Folly stands tall, in my opinion. Every dish was plated to perfection and almost too pretty to eat. The attention to detail given to the garnishing, dusting of different powders and placement of bite-sized portions was impressive.

VALUE
Folly is a fine dining establishment at the end of the day, which means the portions are light (quality over quantity!). Starters are Dh65 or Dh85 while all mains are Dh125. You need to be an adventurous diner to appreciate the food. If not, this might seem overpriced.
janice@khaleejtimes.com

• Food and Dining