Onam: Sumptuous, yet simple is the fare

The sadya - that sumptuous many-itemed meal served on special occasions in Kerala - is perhaps the earliest concept of a multi-course lunch of the Malayali. The sadya also carries with it the tag of ethnic Kerala cuisine, with dishes prepared from local grain, vegetable, tubers and fruit, mirroring the way of life of an agrarian society that once was prevalent in Kerala. 
Of all the sadyas served - be it at a wedding or other auspicious occasions - the wholesome onasadya or Onam lunch can be said to occupy the pride of place in the culinary tradition of Kerala. The onasadya, which is served on Thiruvonam day when all eat to their heart's content, also continues to be the most attractive component of the multifaceted Onam festivities spread over 10 days, starting with Atham. 
Cuisine in Kerala has been influenced by the arrival of different communities both from within the country and abroad since time immemorial. Yet, the sadya stands unique and different from all these genre of cooking. It is rooted in the traditional food pattern of the state, and each item in the many-itemed menu is served in a specific manner. The sumptuous sadya served on a freshly cut plantain leaf on Thiruvonam day is the epitome of the Malayalis' love for good food. The ingredients used are purely local and rooted in Kerala's culture and soil.
Onam is associated with the harvest season in Kerala, a period of plenty and prosperity. It was during one season of the year where, when the public distribution system was yet to be introduced, granaries spilled over with the freshly harvested rice and pulses. A variety of vegetables too were available after the rigorous spell of the South West monsoon. Fruits such as plantains and bananas (nendran) were available in plenty during this time of the year, adding to the variety and sumptuousness of the sadya.
The onasadya fare is pure vegetarian, mildly spiced as to tickle the taste buds. Coconut desiccated or ground is added to many of the dishes, while freshly extracted coconut milk is added to the payasams. The onasadya also mirrored a time of happiness and prosperity of the Malayali, awakened by the age-old myth of welcoming the legendary King Mahabali, under whose rule all were treated equal. The egalitarian spirit is reflected in the fact that the onasadya had to be eaten and enjoyed by all, irrespective of class or caste, rich or poor, hence the popular saying: 'Kaanam Vittum Onam Unnanam'. In an essence, the saying means one should not worry about spending on food on Thiruvonam day, even if purse strings have to be stretched to the limit.
The feast
The onasadya meal is served on a tender plantain leaf that is placed with the end to the left, and eaten while sitting on mats spread on the ground. The incredible quantity of food consumed at the onasadya must be seen to be believed, and continues even today, despite health fads. It is customary to serve a minimum of 11 dishes. The number of items can go up to even 64, where each person is provided with three plantain leaves one on top of the other.
There is a specific order and place on the leaf for each serving. Pappadam is served on the extreme left with a plantain placed on it. Then come the fries like varuthupperi and sharkara upperi. Sometimes chips of yam and jackfruit are also served. The pickles served next are that of lime and green mango, besides the puliyinji, a pungent combination of ginger, tamarind, spices and molasses seasoned with mustard. The mildly flavoured avial, prepared from a wide assortment of vegetables available during the season, occupies a significant place in the meal with accompaniments such as pachadi, prepared with curd, mustard and pineapple or ash gourd, besides a plethora of items such as parippu, kalan, olan, koottukari, erissery, mulakushyam, sambar, rasam, etc.
In the olden days, freshly harvested rice would be served. It is only after the guest sits down that rice is served. The meal is rounded off with at least two payasams such as pradhaman and cherupayar parippu payasam. Sometimes one more payasam variety would feature on the menu. Notably, the Kerala sadya is not oily or overly spicy, hence light on the stomach. Nevertheless, a jeera-dried ginger drink is served along with the onasadya to facilitate better digestion.
In today's urban centres, there are new entrants on the onasadya menu such as fried chicken or fish. But in all, the does little harm to one's tummy irrespective of the quantity one eats.