Food Review: Dubai's Legends lives up to its name

NAMING A RESTAURANT Legends would normally be inadvisable. Akin to calling your child Einstein or your Chihuahua The Hulk, you're only setting yourself up for dashed expectations. Notable nomenclature failures include the band Eternal who broke up after eight years together and the Thomas Rhett song, Unforgettable, the lyrics of which we couldn't recall if there were a million dirhams riding on belting out a decent rendition.  The Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club steakhouse Legends, though, appears to be in the 0.1 per cent of labeling gambles that paid off.  It doesn't disappoint in both senses of the word. Not only has it been around forever - longevity is key to such a status, see Kirk Douglas - a meal there also lives long in the memory.
Heading down on a Wednesday evening, the first surprise upon entering this Dubai institution was the full dining room on a weeknight. We'd nonchalantly booked ahead without any particular urgency, assuming there'd always be a small corner in which to squirrel ourselves away for an evening of top-notch red meat. We certainly underestimated the Creek-side eatery's appeal. Without that reservation our 'steak hanger' would have gone unsatiated.
Before the meat-feast commenced, we had to give the new appetiser menu a roll. Finger-food to share would be the best description of the course and it was, to quote a well-known chicken chain, finger lickin' good. Black tempura shrimp made with squid ink, tuna croquettes, seafood arancini, everything brought to the table was delicious with a hint of the exotic. The tempura shrimp were a particular delight, the ink enveloping the light batter with a soupcon of umami. We really wanted to give the snail samosas a go, but alas there was no room this time around.
Following the starters came what we were there for - meat: a Steak Diane and 250g of Irish Dry Aged tenderloin; the first expertly flambéed at the table with mushrooms and the second ordered blue with peppercorn sauce. Two such varying cooking methods you are unlikely to come across in one party, but it's a good test, right? Both passed with flying colours. The pan-fried fillet was buttery and comforting, while the flash-fried Irish tenderloin was so melt-in-your-mouth, well. tender, it was difficult to remain composed. The thick-cut fries, Dauphinoise gratin and creamy spinach sides didn't help quell the ecstatic yelps. Nor did the dessert we unhelpfully (for our waistlines) ordered. A beautiful tiramisu topped with cacao crumble and served in a pot, assembled to look like a plant with a mint leaf as the flower, crumble as the soil and Mascarpone cream, provided our reason to hit the gym harder over the coming weeks.
Where: Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club
Average cost per person:  Dhs250
Stand-out dish: Irish Dry Aged tenderloin
david@khaleejtimes.com