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Ramadan through the eyes of a non-Muslim - Day 29

Many people in the UAE would be going to Makkah during the last few nights of the holy month, forming just a small part of the 25 million visitors who were expected during Ramadan.

T o gain a better understanding of Ramadan, and of Islam, one must l ook to the West of the UAE, to the holy city of Makkah.
Until the recent past, for a non-Muslim, such as myself, to be able to witness Muslims doing Umrah would have been impossible. But the 21st century has brought with it several possibilities like being able to witness the morning prayers, for example. There are 24/7 live feeds from Makkah with translations provided on several channels shown in the UAE. A few nights ago, on Laylat Al Qadr, the popular SnapChat app gave the world a glimpse of Makkah through the eyes of the pilgrims.
I recently learned that many people in the UAE would be going to Makkah during the last few nights of the holy month, forming just a small part of the 25 million visitors who were expected during Ramadan.
Interestingly, one reader told me that Umrah is a journey symbolising both the physical act of the pilgrimage as well as the inner intentions that come with it. In a way, this reminds me of the general ethos of Ramadan, which combines a physical hurdle (the fast) with time for quiet introspection.
From afar, the pilgrims in Makkah seem like one white moving mass in their white garments. But, when the cameras zoom in, one can discern an amazing spectrum of people from every corner of the world, and from every strata of society. After all, some Muslims spend their entire lives saving up to be able to go for such trips, while for others, it's perfectly feasible to go spend a few days of Ramadan every year.
Taken in the context of Ramadan in the UAE, this diversity and sense of a Muslim community has been one of the most endearing aspects of the holy month from my perspective as an outsider. When I first arrived in Dubai in January, the Emirates struck me as a cliquish place, marked by national, socio-economic and racial divisions.
Much to my surprise, all this melted away during Ramadan, and, for the first time, I witnessed Muslim expats and locals come together in a non-professional setting, and witnessed residents - Muslims and non-Muslims alike - spare a kind thought for the oft-neglected sections of the UAE population, such as cab drivers and labourers.
As Ramadan winds down, this has been particularly evident. At the beginning of the month, I remember thinking the mosques were packed. Little did I know that those crowds would pale in comparison to the vast numbers of people heading to the mosque during these important last few nights.
bernd@khaleejtimes.com