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Paul Smith’s colourful Eighties
Paul Smith is perhaps the menswear designer most closely associated with bold colour.
Sunday’s show proved why — with the British designer cleverly riffing off the trend for the 80s by reviving that decade’s often-overlooked penchant for vivid hues on exaggerated jackets and pants.
The first clue to this mission was an oversize burnt orange jacket with angular shoulders — that hanged loosely down to the mid-thigh. It was masterfully contrasted with a subtle vermilion in the shirt and high Eighties pants.
The most eye-catching of the colourful looks — were some on-trend citrus yellow pants — a hue that flashed back in boots, a shirt and a sweater later in the collection.
There was also a hint of the dazzling era of Glam Rock — with one bold, shiny grey double breasted jacket and stylish skinny tie.
Saint Laurent heads to Woodstock
Slimane headed directly into counter-culture (and perhaps counter-fashion) for his glitzily shabby fash ode to the late Sixties hippy on Sunday.
Torn denim jeans, knitted bobble hats, unkempt hair, boys that look like girls, (and vice versa), lumberjack shirts, army surplus coats, Peruvian ponchos and tie-dye tops were all thrown into the creative mix by the irreverent designer who seemed to channel the styles of the 1969 iconic Woodstock music festival.
It was intentionally provocative — given the clothes’ exorbitant price-tag. The collection, which was also one of Saint Laurent’s most decorative, mixed high and low.
Among all the shabby hippy wardrobe sprung out some real gems — like a fabulous patchwork leopard print tuxedo, or a richly embroidered jacket that was made from every color of the rainbow.
Whether the fashion media were being duped or not, it was great fun to watch.
Lanvin continues ‘80s-tinged love affair
NBA star Amar’e Stoudemire continued his whistle stop tour of Paris Fashion Week, arriving at Lanvin with his wife for the Sunday morning show. In the collection, co-designers Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz continued their recent flirtations with the ‘80s, offering up a varied collection — dominated by neutral colours.
The show’s opening statement — an oversize pale gray polo shirt with a model with slicked-back hair — set the clock firmly back to the era of exaggerated volume and form.
More ‘80s references abounded — like a huge, voluminous blue suit, with big round shoulders, turned up sleeves, and high-waisted pants — and white patent and punk-looking boots. Elsewhere, a turned-up collar on a stylish pea coat cut a graphic silhouette, especially with the floodlit lighting inside Paris’ storied Left Bank Ecole des Beaux Arts.
In other looks, there were flashes of detail, embellishment and layering — tassels flapping down from long jerkins, necklaces, hoops on belts, and neck scarves.
The collection packed no great surprises, but was consistently stylish.
Proud parents
Gary Oldman said he was jittery for his 16-year-old son Charlie before his modelling debut in Paris — after he was discovered at a music concert wearing an YSL jacket by the fashion house. “I’m a little nervous for Charlie. The Yves Saint Laurent house is such a tradition ... It’s great that he, in a small way, can be part of it,” he told said.
Meanwhile, former James Bond actor Brosnan was predictably cooler.
“It is a proud moment. We’re here to see our son on the runway. To support him,” he said.
“He’s not modelled before, and Hedi (Slimane) just discovered him at a juice bar coffee shop in Malibu,” he added, laughing.
Brosnan, 62, was pictured being mobbed by fans on Saturday while in Dublin filming for his latest movie, a revenge film called I.T. “You know, I’m Irish and it’s just so wonderful to be back home filming this film,” he said.
Here is everything you need to have in hand before you register for the procedure
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