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WE ALL HAVE our favourite regional dishes, but for one of Lebanon's most celebrated chefs, Bethany Kehdy, a particular salad stands head and shoulders above the rest. According to the 'new champion of Middle Eastern food' and 'modern Claudia Roden', as she has been deemed by her peers, Kehdy believes tabouleh speaks to the soul of her nation's cooking.
"It is something I never tire of craving," the Lebanese-American said about the parsley and tomato mix when we spoke of her latest culinary venture in Dubai: cookhouse, Dayma.A few years ago, I collaborated on a number of Arabic videos but we never pushed through with the project. Here goes anyway. If you're inclined to subscribe to my YouTube, link above, with archive recipes.View this post on Instagram
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"Some dishes are inspired by the past, like the shatta prawn sambusek, others celebrate the tradition of leaning mostly on vegetables, so we offer a vegetarian sfiha made with aubergines and walnuts. In fact, over 70 per cent of the menu is effortlessly vegetarian because the cuisine lends itself well to this. It's what makes it so balanced and healthy."
Kehdy added sustainability was high on her list of priorities, which dictates overfished hammour, for example, will not adorn the carte.
"If I were trying the food for the first time, I'd go for tabouleh no doubt," Kehdy told us when describing her ideal order. "Then any of the dips are always popular, whether hummus or aubergine mutabal. As a main, everyone loves the lamb freekeh and to finish for dessert, something light like muhalabieh."
Other popular items include chicken musakhan, and the sour cherry kebbeh.
Inspiration for Kehdy's creations, she says, stems from her grandmother's love of food, though her Lebanese father and his sisters are further influences. Friend and fellow renowned restaurateur Greg Malouf has also provided encouragement.
To place Dayma solely on major online delivery services and Facebook (@DaymaDayman) is a result of the pandemic-led increase in drop-off meal demand, but why Dubai as an inaugural location for eatery endeavours?This goes out to the empowered women I am so lucky to know. Thank you for supporting me and lifting me up in one way or another. Your strength, sincerity and wisdom inspires me. ?? to the genuine women who raise other women up ??@injoywithranda #challengeaccepted #womensupportingwomen ?? @sarkababickaView this post on Instagram
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Who in the celebrity world would you most like to have around a table to cook for?
Mark Sykes and Francois Georges Picot. I'd serve tabouleh, hummus, fatayer, and a whole sheep's head with rice!
david@khaleejtimes.com
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