'Eurasia' on a budget

Georgia offers the best of Europe and Asia - without pinching your pocket. Bonus: Visas are not the tiniest bit of hassle

Located at the intersection of West Asia and East Europe, with Black Sea to its north west, Georgia is, by far, one of the most beautiful countries in the Caucasus region. To start with, Georgia is NOT a part of Russia, and Georgians are not Turks. Georgia is an independent country with a unique ethnic group, language and culture. Centuries of invasions by Mongols, Russians, Ottoman and Byzantines have definitely influenced their lifestyle and food, but this tiny country continues to be what it was - true to its roots.
Tbilisi, Georgia's capital, is a destination in itself, with enough to keep a visitor occupied for a day, two or more. Do excuse me for gushing - but when I arrive in a country that doesn't charge a Lari for a visa, you can be sure of my falling rapidly and deeply in love, irrespective of what I was going to encounter within.
North for adventure
From the word go, there was so much waiting to be explored that, without wasting time, I hired a car (with a driver, of course) and headed north through the Georgian Military Highway that led into Russia. The Georgian side ends at Stepantsminda (former Kazbegi), just short of Russian border. Unmistakable signs of ancient habitation appear at vantage points, such as the Jvari Monastery perched on an outcrop overlooking the UNESCO World Heritage town of Mtskheta (the famous cave dwelling of Uplistsikhe are located around here), the
Zhinvali Reservoir and the confluence of Black and White River Aragvi.  Suffice to say that it is the first indication of beautiful things to come in this country.
As I headed farther uphill towards Gudauri, paragliding, hiking and skiing were just a few things the driver-guide said I could do, season permitting, although hiking was a definite possibility all year through.
Driving past Gudauri towards Kazbegi is the Friendship Monument, built in 1983 to celebrate friendship between Russia and Georgia. Covered in colourful murals, this circular wall is perched on the edge of a cliff and is a hit amongst the camera-happy tourists looking for a memorable photo and locally procured fruits Georgians are very proud of.
Hence when we reached Stepantsminda, it was late, so I spent my time revelling in the tiny border town that consisted primarily of one museum, two hotels and four cafes overlooking the town centre with snow-covered mountains rising out of their backyard. It was in this jewel of a town that I found Georgia's best kharcho soup and kebab. Thanks to this culinary gem, the night passed by rather peacefully.
It began to rain the next morning, which meant hiking to the mountain top to pay my respects at the Gergeti Trinity Church was out of question, so it was a 4WD once again and we bumped along dangerously up the steep incline to reach 2,170m above the village of Gergeti.
The 14th century Gergeti Trinity Church is worth the trip for two reasons: it is a very old church and the views from the mountain top are breathtaking. Snow-capped mountains rise both above and behind the church and the village of Gergeti appears like a distant fairyland below! Click away to your heart's content because there are not many places in Georgia that can satisfy your soul as much as this mountain top.  
Things to know: Skiing season at Gudauri is from December-April. So, if you are an adrenaline junkie, time your visit to coincide with it. Paragliding, however, can be done on any day when the weather is good. Most hotels remain closed in the non-skiing season.

Go east for heritage
One the eastern side of Georgia is the Kakheti region and here is Sighnaghi, the walled city, reachable via stunning landscapes and vineyards. When driving through, pull over at the numerous vineyards for some delicious fruit. No one really cares if you made away with a bunch or two. This region has over 300 varieties of grapes - killing the sour grape theory, which my driver told me was "cooked up by a loser that never tasted the Georgian grapes."  
Kakheti is known for its monasteries, like the Bodbe Monastery where the body of Saint Nino's (Enlightener of Georgia) is buried. The monastery overlooks a beautiful valley and you can look into Azerbaijan on a clear day. Inside the monastery, women are expected to cover their head and photography is strictly not allowed. So, although the beautiful paintings on the walls are a temptation, avoid breaking rules. St Nino is much revered by Georgians.
Sighnaghi is the prettiest town in this region, sitting on a hilltop overlooking beautiful green Alazani. Walking down the road you could for a moment feel yourself in Italy - the town has been renovated not too long ago and the streets are quite new - but they have easily managed to retain much of the old world charm. The 4,500m City Wall surrounding the city was built in the 18th century by King Erekle II, to protect the area against attacks. Sighnaghi's fortifying wall is one of the biggest in Georgia, ruined in some parts but restored recently, and is open to tourists intending to walk on them. David Gareja is a monastery complex high in the mountains (bordering Azerbaijan) cut into a single big rock. It is not easily accessible but if you brave the elements to reach here, you are going to be treated to some history and fantastic scenery.
Did I not tell you that Georgia was a feast for the eyes?

Tbilisi, a city with a heart
Georgia was among the first few countries to adopt Christianity as the official religion and it goes without saying that it is home to some beautiful churches, built hundreds of years ago, and many of them can be found in Tbilisi. It's a great way to glimpse into the past. Tbilisi also does a great party-scene, pulsating with life till late hours when it turns into a party-hotspot, challenging every notion you have about nightlife in this tiny mountainous country. The Georgians know how to wear their party shoes - and if you are looking for a great night out, your best bet would be to head to Rustaveli to rub shoulders with some lively and artsy crowd.

Food in Georgia
If you do not want to experiment with food, just stick to those  dishes that start with the letter K - Khachapuri, Khinkali, Kharcho (thick soup) and kebab. For the uninhibited, just order off the menu because you really can't go wrong with food in Georgia. Remember, every meal is accompanied by a beverage, but it is totally up to you to indulge.
Here is a quick note about eating khinkali. This delicious 'dumpling' arrives steaming hot on a plate. Add a dash of pepper. Do not reach for the fork, spoon or knife. Instead hold it up by the stem and use the other hand to hold the base. Then bite into the fleshy base and quickly suck the liquid inside, lest it drop. Once you have sucked it dry, make your way upward towards the stem. Remember, you must not eat the stem. In Georgia eating the khinkali stem can bring you shame!  
wknd@khaleejtimes.com