A stroll through King's Landing

After being chosen as a location for much of the filming of HBO's Game of Thrones, the picturesque city of Dubrovnik has become a haven for fans of the series

As I travelled to the quaint city of Dubrovnik, I couldn't help but notice that George RR Martin was everywhere. Not in person, of course, but in spirit. More than one enthusiastic tourist was wearing a tee with the official Game of Thrones (GoT) branding on it, while the sight of noses buried in his A Song of Ice and Fire series was an all-too-common sight. Just when you start wondering if people in the city could get any more GoT-obsessed, you'll find the pathway leading to Dubrovnik's old town crowded with locals handing out pamphlets for GoT tours. This is a fan's ultimate paradise, and every corner of the city will you remind you of it.
The obsession is rather understandable given that Dubrovnik is the filming location for King's Landing, the fictional town that serves as the stronghold of the Lannister family in the series. Much of the shooting is done within its old town which happens to be a UNESCO World Heritage Site. One step into the place, with its majestic city walls, will make you understand why GoT creators David Benioff and DB Weiss chose it for their medieval fantasy show. Narrow alleyways and quaint brick houses with red roofs, all enclosed within grand walls, will have you on the lookout for knights, lords and castles.
Since we couldn't beat the hardcore fans, we decided to join them in their obsession by signing up for one of the numerous GoT walking tours. And that's how we ended up waiting at Pile Gate, the main entrance to the old town, searching for our guide who promised to be waving a Lannister flag. We found Robert soon enough, and he started the tour with a friendly introduction, a warning to 'mind the many stairways' and lots of GoT trivia as he led us to our first stop.
That's how I learnt that shooting for GoT goes on for months on end in the old town, with odd corridors and alleyways being cordoned off, but the locals don't mind it. For one, the show has brought in quite a bit of money for the country, which benefits greatly from the tourism boost. For another, it means that Dubrovnik locals get to be a part of the show as extras. Over 500 locals from the city acted as extras during the filming of Queen Cersei's infamous walk of shame. Robert, who himself has played the role of P44, or peasant 44, in previous season, insisted we remember that number for future reference ("You never know - I could end up winning the throne. Well, I have a better chance than you do.")
After more stairs than I expected, we were at our first stop - Fort Lovrijenac - or as GoT fans may know it, the Red Keep, home to the Iron Throne and the lord of the Seven Kingdoms. And the fortress is magnificent indeed, offering gorgeous views of the coast on one side and the city walls on the other. Interestingly, it is believed that the fort was built in under three months to keep Dubrovnik away from the control of the Venetians. And GoT fans will be thrilled to know it served as the setting of King Joffrey's infamous birthday as well as other scenes like Sansa Stark's near-attack when she was trapped outside the Red Keep in season two. Robert kept things interesting by pulling screenshots from the series out and making us spot the differences. He also asked us to guess who his favourite GoT character was, and to no one's surprise, it turned out to be P44.
Our next stop was back at Pile Gate, where we got to stroll through the very streets where the rebellion against Joffrey took place. We then stepped into the old town, walking through the Stradun (the main street that runs across the old town), and it is a sight to behold with its elegant stone buildings, museums and restaurants. This is the real tourist hotspot of the city.
Within the old town, Robert took us to other locations where the series was shot, and made it all the more special by pointing out the odd extra from screenshots who just happened to be his high school math teacher or his pharmacist. "For most people, watching Game of Thrones takes about an hour," he explained with a chuckle. "It takes us three times that amount because we have to keep calling up acquaintances to let them know we saw them!"
The series has made such an impact on Dubrovnik that Hollywood and Bollywood are starting to notice it. The upcoming Star Wars: Episode VIII was partly shot in there, as was Shah Rukh Khan-starrer Fan. Next year will see more big stars descend there for the filming of 2018 flick Robin Hood: The Origins.
Our last stop for the day was the very street where Queen Cersei was forced to do her 'walk of shame' - a naked march through the streets of King's Landing (interestingly, actress Lena Headey didn't actually do the walk as she was pregnant during the time - it was done by a body double instead). The street is long and winded, and Robert informed us that the walk was done in a series of takes, which jumped from one location to another, making it impossible to actually retread her footsteps. He also warned us not to try to recreate the walk of shame by informing us of the 140 Euro fine imposed on anyone caught trying to take their clothes off.
Our day ended with some of our over enthusiastic tour members playing around with GoT props, while Robert clued us in on who he thinks will win the Iron Throne - and it is a shocker indeed. But I'll leave that part out to spare fans from any more spoilers or conspiracy theories than the ones they already have to bear through.

Walk along the walls
Going on a GoT tour makes for an incredible experience but it would be a crime to leave Dubrovnik without walking along its historic city walls. The whole walk takes about three hours if you want to go at your own pace, and you'll be spoilt by enchanting views from all sides. From Fort Lovrijenac to the Stradun to the red roofs of little stone houses and the Adriatic Sea with its many islands, there is no way to turn your head without glimpsing a perfectly photogenic scenery. Go early in the morning before the rush starts, or at about five in the evening to catch the sunset, take plenty of water and make sure your camera battery is fully charged. There's no better way to enjoy the views this city has to offer than from its majestic, elevated walls.

Tuck into local fare
Croatian food is a mix of cuisines found in other parts of Europe, so don't be too surprised to find menus laden with risottos and pastas, mildly flavoured with herbs and olive oil. But what you will find common in all parts of this coastal country is good seafood. Fresh, local and utterly scrumptious, there's no dearth of fish, prawns, squid, clams, oysters or octopus cooked in basically every form possible. A specialty in the region is black cuttlefish risotto (the black colour comes from squid ink, in case you haven't already guessed) that tastes great and has a rather eerie look to it as well. Other than that, just try their fresh shrimp and clams to get a real taste of the sea.

Dive into the water
Speaking about the sea, Dubrovnik, is the ultimate destination for adventure lovers, with no dearth of water activities. Island-hopping and day tours to nearby islands are commonplace while scuba diving, sailing, kayaking, snorkelling, parasailing, water skiing and white water rafting are actively encouraged. Emboldened by my many options, I decided to sign up for a kayaking and snorkelling class, which is how I learned that water sports are exhausting. As I struggled to keep up with my very enthusiastic - and fit - kayak instructor, I couldn't help but marvel at the outstanding view in every direction, the blue of the water rivalled only by the blue of the sky. Kayaking also gives you a spectacular view of the old walls, and from the distance, it's easy to believe that Dubrovnik is still a magical, medieval place, brimming with scheming princes and elegant ladies. As the sun slowly set over the water, the sky and the sea turned a wonderfully fiery hue and the name 'Red Keep' suddenly seemed to make sense.  
janice@khaleejtimes.com