My kind of food in Dubai: Brasserie, à la desi

Bombay Brasserie gives you the multi-cultured taste of India - through the prism of kitschy, Bollywood-inspired lighting/setting.

There is no shortage of desi restaurants in the UAE. Dubai particularly. Karama, Bur Dubai and Deira boast of incredible Indian eateries, many of them of the hole-in-the-wall nature. But Indian fine dining is somewhat scaled down if you put it in context of the variety/range of culinary offerings from the country: each state (there are 29 in all, at last count!) has a distinctive menu, and every state tries to outdo the other in food contests. It's against this background that Bombay Brasserie stands out like a beacon, leading you up the path to Indian gourmandise. Bombay, the erstwhile Mumbai, used to be India's most cosmopolitan city, aggregating the sum flavours of the country. Bombay Brasserie gives you the multi-cultured taste of India - through the prism of kitschy, Bollywood-inspired lighting/setting (there is a deliberate sense of non-structure, so some of the chairs are upholstered in velvet - remember Bombay Velvet?) and décor that regales us with royal decadence.
There's a chic twist to authenticity. The Gilawati kababs (Dh90/plate) - one of our favourites - come with a spin of spiced foie gras. The humble kheer gets a new avatar with some help from quinoa; the resultant concoction is orange-infused Quinoa kheer (Dh50), very yummy and rather low on the guilt-trip stakes. The other must-tries include Kagaz wali machi (sea bass grilled with mustard in parchment - Dh160), Cochin lobster curry (lobster in coconut milk and curry leaves - Dh210), and Jhinga allepy curry (tangy prawns, green mango - Dh170). If you are genteel about vegetarianism, then try out the Malai broccoli (Dh70), florets of the green superfood, doused with creamy cardamom; or maybe the Bhatti ki subzi (Dh70), spice-rubbed grilled asparagus with avocado.
To further add to the ambience, there's a live kitchen - complete with a sigri grill - where you can watch all the action unfold. If you are really not into that sorta stuff, then you can just soak in the magnificent view of the Burj Khalifa looming in fairly close proximity.
Bombay Brasserie interfaces traditional Indian flavours with contemporary interjections, and you're never quite at a loss over the love and longing for Bombay's glorious (culinary) past.
And for those of you who are not too familiar with Indian cuisine, Bombay Brasserie may just be the right landing ground.
­sushmita@khaleejtimes.com

'British food is going old-school'
Chef Luke Thomas is executive chef of Retro Feasts at The Beach in JBR. When he was just 15, he won the FutureChef competition by Springboard. At 18, Luke became Chef Patron of his first restaurant Luke's Dining Room, which won Berkshire and Buckinghamshire Restaurant of the Year in 2013.
At 20, he opened Retro Feasts, an exciting pop-up social diner concept in Mayfair focusing on recreating childhood favourites into cleverly revitalised dishes for today. 2015 has seen Luke launch Retro Feasts in Dubai as the diner's first permanent residence and his first overseas venture.
How popular is British cuisine in Dubai?
In Dubai, which is an international foodie hub, British food is picking up more than ever. We're going back to old-school dishes; lesser-known cuts, popular 60 years ago, are coming back in fashion, allowing British chefs to be ever more creative with their menus.
How much is the average spend - say, for a family ?of four?
You can feed a family of 4 for around Dh400-500, but it's always worth looking around to see what deals are around for families.
Which day sees maximum traffic?
Fridays and Saturdays are always great for businesses - it's the time when everyone is relaxed and keen to treat themselves and their families.
How has the dining scene - all around the city - evolved?
Other than construction, Dubai's progress has been best reflected in the food scene. International brands and home-grown ones sit happily alongside each other - meaning there's always fantastic choice. From a chef's point of view, it's also progressed in terms of suppliers - there's nothing that can't be sourced and it inspires us to be more creative.
Which is the best compliment you have received?
I actually prefer to just watch the look on people's faces when they take the first bite of their burger, the first sip of a Black Forest Shake or whichever dish it may be. Seeing guests smile when they're eating, when they're photographing their food and also when they return to your restaurant is very special.
Other than British, which is your fave cuisine? If it's not Retro Feasts, which other restaurant is your top pick?
I love Italian, Indian, Mexican - you name it! There isn't really a cuisine I don't like, and it really depends on the occasion, who I'm with and the time of day. If I had to pick one it would be Italian, due to its freshness and simplicity. I also love La Petite Maison so much; they do simple and unbelievably delicious food. My other favourite in Dubai is the recently-opened Intersect by Lexus.
What are the top 3 British dishes diners order when they visit Retro Feasts?
I would say the three that people keep returning for would be our Classic ? Retro Burger, the Fish Finger Sandwich and I don't know anyone that can say no to our crunchy Popcorn Chicken with sweet n' sour sauce!
Do you feel Dubai is one of the top food capitals of the world? If yes, why?
Totally! If you want to experience some of the ?best chefs, brands and cuisines in the world, then Dubai is absolutely where you can do this; it's continuously evolving.
- As told to Sushmita Bose

• Food and Dining
• Dubai