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Travel to Angola this summer for sun, sand, and surf

Wary of its dependence on oil and already burned by the market’s volatility, Angola is embarking on a drive to lure back foreign visitors

Published: Fri 4 Jul 2025, 5:10 PM

When Feliesiano Muteca started surfing a decade ago‭, ‬he had the waves at Cabo Ledo on Angola’s long Atlantic coastline pretty much to himself‭. ‬

Now‭, ‬the unspoilt and sandy beach about 125‭ ‬kilometres‭ (‬75‭ ‬miles‭) ‬south of the capital‭, ‬Luanda‭, ‬has become a prized destination‭ ‬for international surfers‭, ‬with a reputation as a hidden gem‭.‬

The Portuguese-speaking southern African nation is still scarred by a long post-independence civil war that stalled its development‭, ‬although parts of Luanda flash with oil money‭.‬

Wary of its dependence on oil and already burned by the market’s volatility‭, ‬Angola is embarking on a drive to lure back foreign tourists by easing access for travellers and boosting its attractions‭. ‬These include Cabo Ledo‭, ‬where Muteca is a qualified surfing instructor with the sport’s accredited body‭.‬

“There are two of us‭, ‬and we give surf lessons‭,‬”‭ ‬said Muteca‭, ‬who started out when he was about 10‭ ‬by borrowing boards from other surfers‭. ‬“Otherwise‭, ‬we’re there to help out on the beach‭,‬”‭ ‬he said‭, ‬pointing to thatched cabanas being assembled on the sand‭.‬

Further along‭, ‬a small lodge has set up a beachside bar and cafe‭, ‬with cabins on the hillside overlooking the Atlantic‭. ‬It is filled with a group of Germans enjoying the shade between waves‭. ‬The same company‭, ‬Carpe Diem‭, ‬has a larger resort just up the coast‭.‬

Nearby‭, ‬tourist sites like the dramatic seaside Miradouro da Lua cliffs once had little more than a dusty road to a lookout point‭. ‬

Now there’s a smoothie hut and a cocktail bar‭, ‬with a branded wooden frame showing the best angles for photos and selfies‭.‬

After five decades of war that ended in 2002‭, ‬the vast country had a Stalinist government suspicious of the outside world‭. ‬

Oil fuelled a post-war boom‭, ‬but an oil crash sent the kwanza currency tumbling‭. ‬In 2014‭, ‬it traded at around 100‭ ‬to the US dollar‭. ‬It is now trading around 900‭ ‬to one dollar‭.‬

The oil boom days sent tourism to a high of nearly‭ $‬1.6‭ ‬billion‭ (‬Dh5.8‭ ‬billion‭) ‬in 2014‭, ‬with the yacht crowd filling Luanda Bay‭ ‬and splashing huge sums on lavish beach parties‭. ‬

New plans

That plunged to just‭ $‬14.8‭ ‬million‭ (‬Dh54‭ ‬million‭) ‬last year‭, ‬according to the National Bank‭. ‬It led the government to adopt a new tourism strategy‭. ‬

Since last year‭, ‬dozens of countries have visa-free entry‭. ‬An airport where soldiers once patrolled with AK-47s is now staffed with smiling young travel ambassadors wearing denim overalls with bibs that read‭: ‬“Can I help you‭?‬”

The yacht club remains busy‭, ‬but Luanda has also become a stop for cruise liners‭.‬

Local tour companies are opening to guide visitors through the less developed interior‭.  ‬And high-end international companies are adding Angola to their itineraries‭.‬

Luanda-born writer Claudio Silva in June co-hosted a week-long journey for foodies‭, ‬travelling with a top Angolan chef to visit‭ ‬new wineries and explore pre-colonial cuisine and heritage farming‭.‬

“Deep-dive gastronomic tours like the one we’re doing with Roads and Kingdoms are an opportunity for us to tell our own stories‭, ‬through food and culture‭, ‬in urban and rural‭ ‬settings‭, ‬where our journey is guided by the experiences of the people who live here‭,‬”‭ ‬he said‭.‬

South African luxury train operator Rovos Rail has also added the Angolan port city of Lobito to its routes‭, ‬creating overland treks that can run across the continent from the Indian Ocean to the Atlantic‭.‬

Those journeys pass through inland areas largely unseen by outsiders for decades‭. ‬That means accommodation can be basic‭. ‬

The once-rich wildlife population was decimated by the years of war but government-sponsored re-population efforts are under way‭, ‬said Pedro Monterroso of African Parks‭, ‬a non-profit conservation group‭.‬

Local rangers and communities are also being trained to become involved in the safari sector‭, ‬said Monterroso‭, ‬whose organisation has been hired by Angola to run Iona National Park along the Namibian border in the ancient Namib desert‭. ‬

“The vision is they want to be Namibia or Botswana in 10‭ ‬or 15‭ ‬years‭,‬”‭ ‬Monterroso said‭, ‬referring to Angola’s neighbours that draw tens of thousands of foreign tourists every year to their unspoiled natural‭ ‬
riches‭.‬‭