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Goa Trance
India's most popular tourist destination isn't as packed as it normally is at this time of the year, but there is no getting away from its captivating spirit
- PUBLISHED: Sun 11 Jan 2009, 1:46 AM UPDATED: Tue 20 Jun 2023, 2:39 PM
As the GoAir flight from Mumbai starts its descent towards Goa's Dabolim Airport, located in scenic Vasco, I'm overcome by an almost overwhelming feeling of nostalgia. This is not my native state, I can understand but little of the local language (Konkani) and yet there is a palpable sense of 'homecoming' every time I arrive here.
Perhaps it's because of the friendliness of the local people, who welcome both foreigners and fellow Indians with the same enthusiasm. We, the visitors, just blend into the mood of sussegad (laidback) afternoons - extended siestas by the seaside, a refreshing drink while contemplating the sunset… and much more.
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The influx of tourists to India's most popular tourist hot-spot was noticeably less, partly due to terror threats around Christmas/New Year time. And, of course, the sunny beaches have also had to weather the impact of the recession. As I made my way around the popular Candolim, Baga and Calangute beaches, I noticed increased security. Relaxing in an easy chair at one of the shacks on the beach, I chatted with my waiter, Vikram, from India's northern state of Punjab. “Business is low this year,” he said matter-of-factly, before trying to waylay a passing tourist with an epic-sized menu, as the shack speakers blared out a mixture of trance and house music.
Some friends turned up from Bangalore and Ahmedabad. Since it was their first trip to Goa, I became their official guide. We went to Old Goa, which houses the Basilica of Bom Jesus, and the Church of St Francis of Assisi. I am awed, as always, by the Basilica; there is something hauntingly beautiful about the structure which is over 400 years old. And every time I come here, I seem to see it in a new light. I think I will never be able to take in enough of the place: it transports you almost instantly to another century, if only for a few moments... The souvenir vendors outside the church, however, soon bring you back to the present. “Please buy earrings, madam. Stick-on, sparkling, stones…” “Bags, colourful bags, only Rs 250…” they yell non-stop, stalking us all the way to the bus stop.
My friends wanted to take 'full advantage' of the sun-kissed beaches, and so they proceeded to indulge in everything from parasailing to jet-skiing with me as a happy (and dry) detached spectator. The Calangute beach offers a plethora of watersports which includes 'banana boating' where the 'enthusiasts' are taken out to sea on a boat which is then 'overturned' quite suddenly. Then comes the 'rescue' act. One of my friends needed more than a few hours and a Red Bull to recover from the 'near-drowning', as he called it, experience.
Panjim, the capital of Goa, is a charming city of by-lanes, shops and quaint tiled houses that reflect a strong Portuguese influence. Here, after a fish curry and rice lunch in a little restaurant called 'Anandashram' tucked away in one of the tiny one-way-streets, we chanced upon the Mary Immaculate Church, a pristine white, imposing structure set upon a hill. The stairs leading up to the church were steep and the heat relentless (Goa doesn't really have a winter) but when we finally reached the top, the spectacular view of Panjim and a refreshing breeze made the climb well worth the effort.
On December 31, the burning question on everyone's lips was “Where's the party tonight?” Surprisingly there were loads of hot-spots to choose from, despite the government's confusing 'ban' on beach parties because of the security threat. Ours turned out to be an all-night affair, as we club-hopped and beach-hopped, making our way from La Calypso Resort in Baga to the popular Tito's/Mambo's on Calangute Beach.
One evening, we hopped across for dinner in Thivim - a tiny sleepy village at the bottom of a hill - where my aunt lives. Like countless others in Goa, this is a picture-perfect setting where even the whispering breeze spirits you away to another world, and another time. The silent fields, dotted only by a cow or two, slopes thickly encrusted with trees, quaint tiny chapels and old brick houses - all add to its enchanted atmosphere. But that's the thing with Goa: enchantment is part of its life.
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