Turning over a New Leaf

The all-too-familiar Indian cuisine gets a new twist to its taste and setting at Mint Leaf of London in Dubai International Financial Centre.

It never fails to amaze me how many times I have been caught in The Best food trap in Dubai. The Best Thai restaurant. The Best Italian bistro. The Best steakhouse. And, of course, The Best Indian food. 
Every time I eat somewhere, I am tempted to classify it (and/or its food) as the ‘best’: it’s so easy to come across more than decent dining experiences in the melting pot.

Best Indian food is perhaps more ubiquitous than any of the others — because of the mammoth outlay of the cuisine in Dubai.

Many would agree that the best (read: most authentic) Indian food is served in less fancier, more mainstream eateries; other than signature Indian outlets at a few five-stars, there are only a handful of fine-dining spaces serving desi khaana that dot the city.

I was intrigued, therefore, to learn about a new entrant into this complex market — Mint Leaf of London, part of London’s Mint Leaf chain. The London outlets take the notion of desi food seve-ral notches over, and above, the curry train phenomenon. The brand DNA remains the same in the Dubai offering: contemporary Indian with a twist — but not quite fusion, the way, say, Indego is.

Mint Leaf boasts a beautifully-appointed setting, plonked on the 15th floor of South Tower at DIFC, dressed up in woody flavours, paisley patterns and super eclectic furnishings. Quite elegantly bes-poke I thought. The lounge area is separated from the dining area, intersected by a few ‘private dining’ nooks (ah, the ‘private dining room’ of the Forresters’ in The Bold and the Beautiful has rather come of age!).

There is a live kitchen splayed across one side of the dining area. Smiling chefs rustling up steaming naans and rotis, cooking curry and rice with practised panache. But the live display is not meant to distract you: the view is. You can simply turn your back (to the live action) and drink in the best of Dubai: the glittering Sheikh Zayed Road snaking down, Burj Khalifa rising majestically, and the rest of the attendant desert charm popping up in the vista.

The ‘Indian’ hospitality here — even though most of the (charming and knowledgeable) servers I came across were not from India — is easily one of the best I have come across. If 
you are at a loss (and you well may be giving the decidedly spoilt-for-choice menu), you can safely ask for 
recommendations. These guys know what they are talking about, and will not take you down any mint-leaved garden path.

So here is what I sampled:

Aloo Chaat — because I wanted to know how fine dining does street food. The chaat’s a delight, with baby potatoes fried crisp and then splattered with all kinds of delice trappings: sweet yoghurt, tamarind chutney and sev.

Lamb Shammi Kebab — because I was in the mood for some (the last time I had shammi kebabs was several months ago, really nice ones from Dum Pukht in Karama). Shallow-fried lamb mince patties stuffed with hung curd and brown onion. Succulent. Super.

Mahi Tikka — because I wanted to figure how salmon makes it peace with tandoori spices. Together with mustard and dill, and alongside red onion raita, a happy co-existence.

The three of the above constituted starters. Yes, I know, even I was wide-mouthed at my excessive gluttony. And then, there were the mains. A stunningly well-made Mirchi Korma (lamb shank cooked Kashmiri-style with smoked paprika and lime juice) with keema-stuffed naan; a coastal triumph of Fishermen’s Prawns (lemongrass scented black tiger prawns with kaffir lime leaves and garlic; munchilious Crispy Okra (deep-fried okra crusted in rice flour and semolina); and a great rendition of the Tarka Dal (yellow lentil tempered with cumin, red chilli and tomato).

Everything was spectacularly good, so, even though I felt I would implode, I had to have one brush with a Mint Leaf dessert. The Potted Mint Leaf is a coconut brownie layered butternut sauce and raspberry compote. It was almost like saving The Best for last... but not quite since it was already part of The Best entourage.

Now, what did I say about The Best trap? I’m trapped.

Mint Leaf of London, Dubai is located on the 15th floor of the Emirates Financial Towers — South Tower in the heart of DIFC. For restaurant reservations, please emailreservations@mintleafdubai.comor call +971 4 706 0900

• Food and Dining