Restaurant Review: Bistrot Bagatelle

Bistrot Bagatelle at the Fairmont, SZR, Dubai, offers oh là là French flair, chic settings and a very comprehensive - yet select - menu. And the food is très bien, discovers Nivriti Butalia

I had not eaten French gnocchi till a meal at Bistrot Bagatelle. Just as well because the dish that landed on our table in the copper saute pan that I was eyeing (Gnocchi à la Parsienne) was automatically the softest, creamiest Gnocchi I'd eaten. Had to stop myself from popping more. Filling too, all that black truffle sauce.
The truffle pizza (Noire with Black Truffle Purée and Fior Di'Latte - incredibly soft cow's milk cheese, similar to mozzarella) we dug into was a treat. If anyone somehow feels underwhelmed with the truffle oil flavouring, add fresh black truffle (looks like pencil shavings) for 50 bucks more. Tastes simple and fabulous even without, though.
The most refreshing dish in the near 50 degrees Dubai heat was the Salade De Tomates. A piece of toasted multigrain bread topped with heirloom tomatoes (marinated in sugar, vinegar, olive oil and served chilled), squares of watermelon, bocconcini cheese and basil pesto. There's a huge selection of meats on the menu that a couple of full-on non-vegetarians could do better justice to.
For dessert, we had the (big!) chocolate cake with hazelnut mousse and amaretto ice cream called Viennois à la Noisette. And since I was still reeling from the high of the gnocchi, had to find out what sets it apart from the Italian, more familiar one. French gnocchi, as it turns out, is lighter and easier to prepare. Italians use potatoes or semolina or wheat with and eggs and cheese. The French use choux dough - which is basically what goes into those light airy pastries. Think eclairs and cream puffs (or 'profiteroles', if you're being posh).
Taste
Everything tasted fabulous. Even the side of beans with roasted almond shavings had a crunch and colour. No pale, over-steamed wilty dishes available here. Compliments to the chef overall. Someone was paying attention. Enough said about the gnocchi.
Ambience
Lovely diffused lighting. Music - jazz, old school, not necessarily French. Bursts of pop art all over. Kitschy bunch of canvases. Big Spiderman painting, a photo of Bardot, B/W prints, installation art... Washroom has the considerate touch of mouthwash in tiny Kilner-like bottles.
Service
Friendly. Everything was explained. Example: what made the crust of the truffle pizza especially crunchy? The polenta topping. But felt uncomfortable by the presence of an attendant in the washroom. Why can't we yank out our own paper towels?
Presentation
Loved the four stalks of white asparagus with hollandaise sauce in the copper pan and the cake platter the pizza arrived on. The fish was glammed up with micro herbs. The Salade De Tomates looked fantastic. As did the chocolate mousse.
Value for money
Good to see set-ups not being stingy with ingredients. The black truffle was lavishly used. As was the chocolate. They weren't lavish with the petit fours that didn't come with our cappuccino. That apart, great place for a night out. Quiet on a weekday.
nivriti@khaleejtimes.com

• Food and Dining