To protect & serve

I’m beginning to feel like a bully. A bully with a cause. But a bully nonetheless. It started with an 
article I wrote about overfishing in the Gulf. It’s ended with me 
quizzing every restaurant I visit as 
to whether the fish they serve is sustainably sourced.

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Log on to www.fish2fork.com, a campaigning restaurant guide, which has been put up for people who want to eat fish sustainably. They’ve listed fish to eat, fish to avoid, and a plethora of facts and figures for those who are conscious about the fish they consume.

You see the research I did for that article stuck. Put simply — unless we change — humans will eat the seven seas empty. So I became a restaurant bully, asking staff exactly how they source their fish. It doesn’t endear you to management, but it’s a necessary step to push for change.

Seafood-heavy Moana was therefore no different. The question was asked and the answer they gave was to not only proudly say they serve sustainably-sourced fish, but to also give me the name of their supplier, Fresh Express, which checks out as a company that works with the environment in mind. Satisfied, my bullying was complete, but before I move on, I’d like to request you all ask the question, because if you do, restaurants would take note.

With ingredients approved, the next question is also critical ... how does it taste? And the answer... exquisite. Without hyperbole, Moana serves the finest sushi I’ve tasted in Dubai. Possibly worldwide. I say this knowing the competition is tough, but regardless, Moana knows sushi. The presentation of the Crazy Salmon and Moonshine Sushi were akin to an engagement 
present from a high-end jeweller. It 
demanded attention and delivered what it promised — strong flavours of fresh fish, sticky rice, crunchy vegetables and lightly battered tempura.

Beyond sushi, you’ll want to focus on Moana’s starters. The Hand-Carved Smoked Salmon Balik is the finest cut of salmon available. This must be tried. It’s the chateaubriand of salmon. And the Lobster Nachos may sound like a dish from a Texan diner, but the flavours are five-star all the way, although the serving may be on the slightly small side. It depends on how much you’re planning to eat.

If you do have room though, be sure to try the Thai crab or the Malaysian prawn... actually, to be honest, I could recommend every dish we tried. The dining, as noted, is exquisite. So what of the setting?

Moana is set in the gardens of the new Sofitel Dubai The Palm, which is a South Pacific-themed hotel of gargantuan 
proportions, as only befits Dubai. The property is unique in style, and Moana is at the heart of this Tahitian refuge. 
In the winter, sit outside at one of the Japanese-style sunken tables, which 
offer privacy and romance, whilst also being ideal for groups. The lighting is subtle, the music soft, the ceilings high and the desserts indulgent, with all this charm being only 20 minutes drive from Sheikh Zayed Road.

Moana’s credentials are hard to fault, and when you throw in their sustainable thinking, you’re looking at a restaurant that has to be recommended.

What we liked: The sustainability and sushi

What we didn’t like: The journey home
Cost for 2: 
Dh450 (without drinks)

Contact: Moana, Sofitel The Palm, Dubai, 04-4556677

Editor’s Rating: ****