Lured by Northern Lights

There’s an unappreciated corner of the UAE that’s picking up a lot of chatter these days. Known to many as ‘not Dubai’ or ‘somewhere up north’, the emirate of Ras Al Khaimah is garnering increased media attention as it pushes a diversification drive towards becoming the go-to getaway destination that’s only 90 minutes drive from Downtown Dubai.

And leading that push is the stunning Waldorf Astoria hotel, a property that’s fully booked most weekends as people flock from across the country, drawn in by its elegant décor, impeccable landscaping and beach/golf location. Once there guests will, of course, try the fine dining on offer, with the restaurant selection recently boosted by the opening of Umi — a modern Japanese outlet that masters cutting edge minimalism and metallic wall coverings almost as well as it does sushi and sashimi.

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To judge Umi by the number of diners feeding on a Friday evening, you can assume that either Japanese food is popular or Umi has fast developed a name for itself — or both. For a hotel based in a relatively quiet corner of the UAE, the number of diners are high, but the noise is low. This is a place you come to for subdued entertainment, to ogle at the design, relax and savour the rolls. And the finest of the rolls is the dragon roll, closely followed by the rainbow roll.

Sushi needs to be moist, sweet and soft, which Umiachieves with deft skill. We weren’t able to try every item of sushi, but based on the random selection we did try, I’d have to assume you wouldn’t go wrong with that part of the menu.

Following on from the sushi we tried the Japanese wagyu, which I’m always wary of tasting, as I’m not won over by the wagyu hype.

As it was, Umi’s wagyu is good, but maybe not worth the high-ish price, as the fatty content was also high — too high for my liking. I’m told this is how wagyu should be, but if that’s the case I’d rather stick to fillet, rump or tenderloin, which tends to be leaner.

The most fun at the restaurant seemed to be found at the Teppanyaki table, where the chef’s theatrics were entertaining all. On any return I’d book to dine there, as I would at many Japanese restaurants; it adds to the evening if you have an engaging chef hard at work, setting fire to his workstation as you relax mere inches from the action. Next time it will be tried. Booking in advance is key.

It’s doubtful of course that you’ll travel to RAK to visit Umi, but if you’re in the area, visiting RAK or staying at the Waldorf Astoria itself, then a visit to Umi shouldn’t disappoint. There’s strong competition from the WA’s US steakhouse Lexington Grill, so you might need to toss a coin. If I were deciding where to go, I’d… ask whoever I was dining with to choose; it’s so much easier to pass the buck, sit back and enjoy what comes.

What we liked: The décor and staff

What we didn’t like: The Japanese wagyu

Cost for two: Dh350 (without drinks)

Contact: Umi, Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah, 07-2035555