All roads lead to 44

Fast becoming the celebrity chef of the UAE, Gary Rhodes is a favourite of Taste of Dubai, promoting the culinary arts and his Dubai outlets, Rhodes Mezzanine and Rhodes Twenty10. The chef has now expanded his offerings into Abu Dhabi, opening 
Rhodes 44 in the lavish St. Regis Abu Dhabi hotel. If the food is anything as luxurious as the hotel lobby, then a night with a tube of antacid pills awaits you.

On entry to Rhodes 44, you’ll be greeted by a modern baroque interior, light and airy, yet boasting furniture direct from a minimalist chateau. It’s a comfortable environment, with chill out music to boot. Later on in the evening, you may wonder if it’s too chilled out, as you slumber into your cushioned seat, but relaxed seems to be the goal, which is achieved at almost Caribbean levels.

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Relaxation may not be the goal for all diners, as often a lively 
atmosphere can boost a night out, but such boisterous places can be found across the UAE’s culinary scene, so it’s a pleasant change to find a more laidback environment... just as long as the menu is firing on all cylinders. And for Abu Dhabi residents keen to try this Corniche-based option, you won’t be disappointed.

For starters, you’ll want to 
focus on the Chicken Liver and Foie Gras Parfait, as long as your conscience allows you to eat foie gras... Mine does, on occasion, and this time it was worth breaking the rules. The dish punches taste, but oozes French fatty flavour. For mains you should try the Sticky Lavender Honey Chicken, which will entertain with pine nuts, chives, tarragon and citrus sour cream, all of which blend into a mix of flavours that drop you straight into an Oxfordshire garden. And the winning dessert, without question, is the sticky 
toffee pudding, an English favourite and one of the sweetest, most decadent dishes with which you can end a meal.

The dining is world class at Rhodes 44 — that much isn’t up 
for debate. The only question I did have for the restaurant is whether it’s meant to be focused on all-
day dining or on being the hotel’s 
signature dining outlet. It seems to be a blend of both, which isn’t a major issue, but if I’m paying to dine in a signature restaurant, I want to feel like I’m dining in a signature restaurant.

But maybe these are minor quibbles. The food at Rhodes 44 is stunning, as you’d expect from Gary Rhodes; the decor relaxing and the staff informative and friendly. Abu Dhabi diners should check it out, if they relish further growth in the city’s downtown five-star options.

Maybe Dubai will now have to compete for Gary’s attentions, as he’s already lured in by the capital’s charms?

What we liked:The decor

What we didn’t like:The beverage prices

Cost for two:Dh400 (without drinks)

Contact: Rhodes 44, The St. Regis Abu Dhabi, 02-6944553