The lost city of the Incas

Machu Picchu in Peru is an incredibly well-preserved 
ancient city — where you can wander among the ruins and set yourself a date with history

By Julianna Barnaby

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Published: Fri 12 Feb 2010, 9:42 PM

Last updated: Mon 6 Apr 2015, 1:24 PM

You know you have found something special when a place looks just like it does in the pictures. There aren’t many places that can do this but Machu Picchu is one of them.

The pictures are true: perched in a valley between two mountains, Machu Picchu’s setting alone is impressive — from a height of 2,430 metres above sea level, you can see the surrounding peaks, many of which are covered in cloud forest, and further off, the iced caps of the Salkantay mountain.

Previously an ancient Inca fortress under the emperor Pachacuti, Machu Picchu is one of the most well preserved Inca ruins still existing in modern day. Unknown by Spanish conquistadors, the kingdom was virtually forgotten for centuries until it was rediscovered by Hiram Bingham in 1911.

Because the site was forgotten about for so many years, Machu Picchu is incredibly well-preserved. Although a tour with a guide or a guidebook is almost indispensible to help you distinguish the different buildings and find out about their history, the experience of the place is most enjoyable when you take the time to wander around the ruins in your own time at sunrise, soaking up the (relatively) peaceful atmosphere.

If there is one thing you have to do while here, it is to visit the Temple of the Sun. An ancient building dedicated to the Incas most eminent deity, the sun god Inti. The temple is a prime example of Inca stonemasonry and one of the most impressive buildings at the site. During the winter solstice, when sunlight shines through the central window, it falls straight onto a large ceremonial stone in the centre of the round building.

The more adventurous ones can have a go at climbing Wayna Picchu (limited numbers per day), the peak overlooking the site. It offers a spectacular alternative view to those found from within Machu Picchu itself and, if you can make it up before sunrise, it is a breathtaking introduction to the beauty of the area. The mountain was previously the residence of the high priest and the local virgins and the Temple of the Moon, a ceremonial temple carved out of rock on the side of the mountain.

Over recent years, the popularity of the region has mushroomed. Places for the Inca Trail sell out up to six months in advance and trainloads of tourists arrive daily to Machu Picchu Pueblo, the nearest town to get their slice of the cultural action. Although it would take a lot to detract from the magic and the beauty of the ruins, the endless dodging of large groups led by speaker-phoned guides and constant sidestepping of people’s photos rises to the challenge quite well.

Until recent years, Machu Picchu Pueblo (previously — and still commonly called—Aguas Calientes) was largely overlooked by those looking to go to the ruins. Linked to Cusco by train, it used to be a sleepy outpost, most famed for its thermal baths that gave it its name. But the town is experiencing significant growth and savvy travellers who haven’t done the trail have figured out it is the only way to get to the ruins before the huge crowds arrive on the first trains in the morning.

Even so, there are problems. Because the town has experienced such significant growth in such a short period of time, prices can be high and the quality low but there are still a few finds for those looking for a spot of luxury for their stay.

Inkaterra Machu Picchu, an eco-hotel perched on the edge of town is the perfect base for trips to Machu Picchu and discovering the beauty of the surrounding valley. Spread over 12 acres, the hotel is a destination in itself, and boasts its own tea and coffee plantations, herb gardens and a diverse ecosystem supported by the cloud forest setting.

Stepping into the hotel, the first thing that strikes me is the peace and quiet — after the touts and market sellers in the busy town outside, the hotel is so quiet that you can really appreciate the location — the sound of the river, hummingbirds zipping from place to place. Guests stay in large, comfortable villas, all of which have their own fireplace and are perfect for resting and recuperating after a long day.

Insider tip: Book in for the nature tour within the hotel grounds. It’s surprisingly informative and the guide explains the different types of flora and fauna that can be found in the unique cloud forest that covers the hotel and the surrounding areas.

Machu Picchu is such a beautiful place, but the experience can be ruined by the huge crowds of people. Avoid the nightmare by staying in the town and catching the first bus to the site so you can soak up the magic of this historical wonder.

How to get there

British Airways and Lufthansa have direct flights from Dubai to Lima. From Lima, public or private transportation can be taken to reach Machu Picchu.


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