Iftar review: Indian flavours up in the clouds at Tresind

Dubai - Savour an infinite pool of exquisite food experiments for Ramadan that go beyond the barriers of traditional Indian cuisine.

WATCH: Chef Zeeshan prepares home-style Prawn Biryani for Ramadan.
 
(Video by Dhes Handumon/Produced by Nilanjana Gupta)
It was brought and kept in front of me. Chilled red liquid which supported a gaseous explosion of clouds, turbulently fired in a tall glass flask. Thick white smoke. Like the clouds which expressed a pause that was more dynamic than motion.
Bubbles rose from the abyss to the surface of the red liquid, gaining volume and momentum as they moved up. Making sounds like a fish would release that extra oxygen which it had swallowed by mistake.
When you ask for water melon juice, trust me, this is not what you expect. Visually stunning. The most classic beauty in red that bubbled away in the deserts of time. The chef called it 'Lava lamp.' Watch!

Tresind (which stands for 'very Indian') is all about such culinary surprises - a unique translation of Indian flavours coupled with the science of molecular gastronomy. Just above the rush hour madness of Dubai's Sheikh Zayed road sits this very Indian restaurant, on the 2nd floor of the Nassima Royal hotel. The ambience is very skilfully designed to be white and subtle; so that it's their food that steals the thunder.
As I eagerly waited to sample other dishes from their iftar menu, it seemed I was attending a live show to watch interesting theatrics. The chef had moved on to his next play. He effortlessly juggled liquid nitrogen frozen dhokla (steamed Indian cake) on a plate sprinkled with tamarind and mint chutneys - it was as if he was painting on a steel canvas. He added a little of this and a little of that --- what was left was a combination of flavours which beats all the street food that  I had in Delhi, Mumbai or Kolkata. The chef called it 'modernist chaat trolley.'

If you're a fan of Indian street food, behold. Here comes the ultimate pani puri, or gol gappa or puchka, whichever you prefer. Only thing, it looks nothing like any of those. The deconstructed pani puri, as the chef named it, consisted of minty and sour tamarind liquids topped with crispy bits - all served on a single china spoon. Put it in your mouth, and it explodes with the pop of the crunchy puri creating the same sensations, but in a whole new way. A perfect amuse-bouche.

Shortly after comes the palate cleanser - the khandvi sorbet - a reformed Gujarati snack made of gram flour and yoghurt, then tempered with mustard seeds. It had a nice, refreshing taste, perfect to clean the palate and prepare me for the main course.

I ordered Australian lamb shank, Manglorean Fish curry and Prawn biryani. 
The sous vide cooked lamb shank flavoured with apricot and turnip, served with Kashmiri rista and Moroccan style cous cous pulao - was just love at first sight. The fish curry was an epic blend of spices and flavours that overall augmented the delectable fish. It was probably the tastiest dish I had that evening.


The prawn biryani's fragrance was so strong, I could relish it just by ogling at it. It was beautifully garnished with yoghurt and edible flowers - the wonderfully diverse colours made it look like a dish straight from the garden.

After the incredible meal, as I waited for the dessert, I kept wondering what magical things they would do to it. Indeed it turned out to be the pièce de résistance. Daulat ki chaat as they called it, was a mix of two Indian sweets -- soan papdi and nimish. To give it a perfect Dubai twist, it was sprinkled with 24 carat gold dust. Yes it had actual gold dust and looked like a dish straight out of the city of gold.

Everything served on the table showcased the practically unrestricted licence to reinvent Indian food for an elaborate Iftar experience. Their Ramadan special dishes showed how biryanis, curries, tajines and traditional Arab inspired dishes have contributed to the gastronomic scenario of the world. To enjoy every bit of these mouth-watering delicacies, guests can savour the set Iftar meal or order à la carte.  Also you can gorge on a selection of traditional dishes such as Tiger prawn biryani, Malabar prawn curry and Roast lamb tajine, which are new additions to their Ramadan menu.
My only apprehension though was that in order to appreciate the work of art that went into that oh-so-stubborn and rigid of cuisines, you need to be familiar with the myriad ingredients and spices of Indian food. Else the Iftar meal might just come across as a sophisticated Indian-like platter, but not truly Indian -- something that we associate with bulk cooking of heavy food, with cream and butter. But the discerning lot will not only appreciate the subtleties that Tresind is trying to execute here but will walk out with renewed faith in Indian food - it's just too amazingly diverse to stick on one single menu.
 
What we liked: Exquisite presentation with a modern twist to traditional Indian delicacies
Must have: Daulat ki chaat, Modernist chaat trolley, Australian Lamb Shank, Manglorean fish curry
Cost for Iftar meal: Dh200 plus taxes
Timings: 6:30pm to 3:30am
Location: 2nd floor, Nassima Royal Hotel - Sheikh Zayed Road
Contact: 043080440/ 0564209754
Bookings recommended