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Watches: Czapek’s Victory Green chronograph is luxury refined
Limited to 18 pieces, the high-frequency chronograph pairs aristocratic heritage with modern mechanical precision
- PUBLISHED: Fri 20 Feb 2026, 9:33 AM
Long before his name returned to contemporary watch dials, François Czapek had already helped shape the foundations of modern haute horlogerie. As co-founder of Patek, Czapek & Cie in 1839, he played a decisive role in refining both the technical execution and artistic finish of the firm’s early watches, establishing a benchmark for quality at a formative moment in Swiss watchmaking.
After parting ways with Antoine Norbert de Patek — who would later establish Patek Philippe — Czapek founded his own maison, Czapek & Cie, with Juliusz Gruzewski in 1845. The brand flourished, earning acclaim for highly customised timepieces created for Europe’s aristocracy. His reputation reached its peak with his appointment as watchmaker to the Imperial Court of Napoléon III, a distinction that placed him firmly among the most respected horological figures of his era. Equally visionary was his approach to retail, by opening what is believed to be the first dedicated watchmaking boutique on Place Vendôme, alongside salons in Geneva and Warsaw.
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His philosophy carries through to modern Czapek & Cie. Revived with an understanding of contemporary haute horlogerie, the maison has resisted the temptation to trade depth for scale. Instead, it has focused on building a curated collection where mechanical credibility, aesthetic coherence and innovation come together.
The Faubourg de Cracovie collection exemplifies this approach. Conceived as a chronograph that balances elegance with everyday wearability, it speaks to what Czapek does best — taking a historically functional complication and refining it for modern life. The new Faubourg de Cracovie “Crossroads” Victory Green pushes this idea further, adding a colour and texture that sharpen its sporting edge without sacrificing restraint.
Limited to just 18 pieces and crafted in 316L surgical steel, the 41.5mm case feels confidently proportioned yet measured. Its five-atmosphere water resistance, integrated chronograph pushers and subtly sculpted flanks give it a sense of purpose, while the refined execution places it in the realm of luxury. This is a chronograph designed to move seamlessly between contexts, whether worn actively or styled more formally.
The dial is where the watch truly asserts its identity. Produced by Metalem, a long-standing partner of the brand, it features a deeply engraved guilloché pattern inspired by the linear rhythm of a sports tyre. Finished in Victory Green via PVD treatment, the surface shifts character with the light — dynamic, legible and visually rich. A peripheral tachymeter scale reinforces the chronograph’s utilitarian roots, while recessed sub-dials for elapsed minutes and hours, along with small seconds and a discreet date at six, preserve balance and clarity.
Powering the watch is Czapek’s SXH3 calibre, a high-frequency automatic chronograph developed with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. Beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour and certified as a chronometer, it offers precision down to one-tenth of a second.
The vertical clutch ensures smooth engagement, the linear hammers deliver crisp resets, and a bi-directional winding system builds nearly 65 hours of autonomy. Through the sapphire caseback, the movement’s openworked architecture, anthracite treatment and hand-finished details reveal a level of mechanical confidence that matches the watch’s exterior poise. It is clearly aimed at collectors who value substance over spectacle, and who understand that true sport-luxury is defined by substance, nuance and how a watch feels once it’s on the wrist.
Price: CHF 32,000 (exclusive of tax)