E-Paper
Sign In
Watches: Vanguart Orb Flying Tourbillon proves legacy can be engineered
Blending traditional hand-finishing with an interactive, dual-mode movement, the watch shows how modern independents are rewriting haute horlogerie rules
- PUBLISHED: Mon 2 Feb 2026, 8:26 PM
- By:
- Sony Thomas
- Share:
In haute horlogerie, history is usually currency. Centuries of lineage, familiar maisons and inherited codes still carry weight. Against that backdrop, Vanguart feels almost disruptive by virtue of its youth alone. Founded in 2017, the independent brand has chosen not to wait for time to legitimise it. Instead, it has leaned decisively into complexity, while carving out its own language of originality. While its intent was made unmistakably clear in 2021 with the debut of the radical Black Hole Tourbillon, a bold, space-inspired creation, the Orb is the clearest signal yet that Vanguart means business and is willing to punch well above its weight in terms of legacy and heritage.
At first glance, the Vanguart Orb Flying Tourbillon presents itself with a calm, almost meditative symmetry. Look closer, and that serenity gives way to layers of deliberate complexity. This is not a decorative skeleton watch chasing spectacle; it is a deeply considered flying tourbillon that places user interaction at the core of its identity. The Orb introduces an entirely new hand-finished movement, engineered to allow the wearer to alternate between automatic and manual winding modes—a rare proposition, and one that signals technical self-assurance.
Recommended For You
The 41mm case, offered in titanium or rose gold, is deceptively sleek at just 10.5mm thick. Its symmetry is clearly intentional. Extensive hand-decorative elements define the case architecture, featuring polished bevels, sculpted openings, and surfaces treated through sandblasting, satin finishing, and mirror polishing. Crucially, these techniques echo those applied to the movement itself, creating a visual and philosophical continuity between exterior and calibre—a detail seasoned collectors will value.
Inside, the openworked Grade 5 titanium movement is built around balance. The flying tourbillon anchors the display at six o’clock, counterpoised by the barrel at 12. Framing both is one of the Orb’s most arresting features: a sloped orbital track carrying a diamond-set oscillating mass. In automatic mode, this mass glides around the perimeter, appearing to float in space. Switch to manual winding via the crown, and it locks into position, instantly transforming both the mechanics and the visual rhythm of the watch.
This interaction is not merely visual. The crown operates across three positions—automatic, manual winding and time-setting—while a dedicated function indicator reinforces the sense that this is a watch designed to be actively engaged with.
The Orb epitomises a young brand confidently shaping its own future—one where traditional finishing, advanced engineering and emotional interaction come together with conviction. In an industry often anchored to yesterday, that alone makes the Orb genuinely compelling.
Retail & Availability
Available through Ahmed Seddiqi, Dubai Mall
Price
Titanium – Dh700,000
Rose gold – Dh1.9 million