How modern jewellery is breaking free from fashion and gender norms

UAE-based jewellery designer Arshia Khan is quietly but confidently carving her niche in the region’s design circuit. As the creative force behind her studio MOISEAU, Arshia is redefining the way we look at jewellery. She believes it’s an expression of identity, artistry, and emotion. In conversation with Khaleej Times, she shares what goes into crafting a piece that speaks from the soul, why jewellery holds meaning beyond adornment, and how it’s time we stopped confining it to gender lines.

Edited excerpts from an interview:

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Fashion designers often get the spotlight, but jewellery designers tend to remain in the backdrop. How do you feel about that dynamic? 

For a long time, jewellery designers worked behind the scenes while fashion took centre stage. But now, jewellery is finally gaining the recognition it deserves, and people are beginning to appreciate it not just as an accessory, but as an art form with its own story, craftsmanship, and emotional depth. It’s exciting to see jewellery becoming a focal point of self-expression and identity in the fashion world.

MOISEAU pieces have a distinct personality. How would you describe the signature style of your brand, and who is the MOISEAU woman? 

At MOISEAU, our signature style is deeply inspired by nature. Every piece reflects organic forms, fluid movements, and the raw beauty of the natural world. Our designs are bold, expressive, and crafted for women who celebrate individuality and embrace freedom in every form. We place immense value on craftsmanship and authenticity, sourcing the finest gemstones and collaborating with master artisans from around the world to bring each design to life with precision, passion, and soul. 

Jewellery has long been seen as primarily for women. Why do you think men don’t experiment as much, and do you see that changing? 

Today, men are becoming more expressive with their personal style and are embracing jewellery as a form of individuality and confidence. There’s a growing openness to experimenting with unique designs, gemstones, and statement pieces. It’s no longer about gender, it’s about self-expression. In fact, men’s jewellery has truly taken centre stage this year, making strong appearances at major Jewellery Weeks like Milan and New York, as well as on international fashion week runways. 

When did you first realise jewellery design was your calling? Was there a defining moment that set you on this path? 

Jewellery has always been my passion. Even as a child, I was fascinated by the sparkle of gemstones and drawn to the deep, rich hues of jewel tones, which now form the essence of MOISEAU’s identity. After spending over 17 years working in fine jewellery, about two years ago I felt a strong inner calling, a desire to bring together my love for nature and my lifelong passion for design. That’s when MOISEAU was born: a brand that reflects who I am at my core, merging the artistry of jewellery with the soul of nature to create pieces that embody confidence and freedom. 

Walk us through your creative process from concept to finished piece. 

Each design takes around three to four months to come to life. Inspiration can strike anywhere; while I’m traveling, watching a movie, exploring new places, or even reminiscing old memories. A lot of my creative influence comes from the Art Deco era and vintage aesthetics, intertwined with my deep connection to nature. Once the idea forms, I sketch it out and then work closely with my team to refine every minute detail. We source the perfect gemstones from different parts of the world, ensuring each aligns with the vision of the piece. Then comes the technical process; creating CADs, developing samples, and making adjustments until every curve and colour feels just right. Only when the final piece truly embodies the original inspiration do we bring it to life under the MOISEAU name. 

What materials and techniques are closest to your heart, and why? 

I’ve always had a deep love for gemstones; their colours, energy, and individuality truly fascinate me. Each stone has its own story, and I’m passionate about sourcing them from places where they are found in their most authentic form. I also believe in making fine craftsmanship and genuine gemstones more accessible, which is why I love working with 92.5 sterling silver. It’s a precious metal that allows for exquisite detailing while keeping our pieces both luxurious and attainable. For me, it’s about creating jewellery that celebrates authenticity, artistry, and the magic of nature, all while being within reach for those who value true craftsmanship.

As a Pakistani woman entrepreneur in a cosmopolitan market like Dubai, what has the journey taught you? Isn’t it a constant hustle? 

Absolutely. It’s a constant hustle, but one that’s incredibly rewarding. Dubai, to me, is truly a land of opportunities. The city’s diversity, its blend of cultures, and the spirit of harmony it fosters have all played a huge role in shaping my journey and the creation of MOISEAU. Being surrounded by such global influences has allowed me to think beyond boundaries and create a brand that celebrates individuality, freedom, and artistry. MOISEAU was born out of my passion for gemstones and design—a reflection of nature’s beauty and the modern woman’s strength.

Birds and living creatures form an integral part of your designs. Any message there? 

Birds and living creatures have always held a special place in my designs, they symbolise freedom, power, and confidence: qualities I deeply resonate with. My favourite bird is the hummingbird, which inspired both our logo and our name. “M” stands for murmur, and Oiseau means “bird” in French, together forming MOISEAU, a poetic twist on “hummingbird.” It perfectly embodies the spirit of the brand, delicate yet strong, graceful yet full of life.

Do you collaborate with artisans from Pakistan or other regions? How do these collaborations influence your collections? 

Yes, we proudly collaborate with artisans from Pakistan as well as from other parts of the world, including Dubai. Each region brings its own unique craftsmanship, techniques, and artistic heritage and we love weaving those diverse influences into MOISEAU’s creations. Our goal is to bring the best of global artistry to Dubai, celebrating the skill and tradition of artisans worldwide while also supporting and promoting the incredible local craftsmanship that thrives here. Every piece we create is a beautiful blend of cultures, expertise, and a shared passion for jewellery. 

What’s the most challenging piece you’ve ever designed? 

Honestly, the most challenging piece I’ve ever designed was our logo. It wasn’t just about creating a symbol it was about capturing the essence of what MOISEAU stands for: freedom, empowerment, strength, grace, and the beauty of nature. I wanted our logo to embody all these values and translate them into something timeless and meaningful. The hummingbird, with its delicate strength and boundless energy, felt like the perfect representation. Designing it took time and intention because I wanted women to not only recognise it as our brand mark, but to wear it proudly evoking their own sense of freedom, empowerment, and confidence.

Sadiq Saleem is a UAE-based writer and can be contacted on his Instagram handle @sadiqidas.