Indian designer brings his menswear collection to Dubai’s fashion scene

Dubai has always been more than a city. It is a runway of dreams stitched together in gold threads and desert winds. And now, into its glimmering fashion fold enters a designer whose needle has long embellished menswear with meaning — Narendra Kumar. With his eponymous label quietly creeping into the city’s heart, this is not just a launch; it’s the coming together of culture, charisma, and couture in a place that speaks every language of style.

Walking into the store Sartorial Castle at Index Mall feels like a glide into a quiet abode of style, embroidered with finesse — the mannequins showcasing what is unmistakably a crisp demonstration of the designer’s unique concept of combining classic couture with contemporary gloss.

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You, at once, notice this is a haven for men’s fashion, which has for long been languishing in the repetitive cuts and curves of tradition. What Narendra Kumar brings out in his designs is the subtle rebellion of refinement — where sharp tailoring meets progressive silhouettes, and where every button, collar, and cuff speaks of a man who dares to dress with intention, not just habit.

This is a trove where the modern man will convert to chic representations of style and elegance, tastefully hemmed by Narendra Kumar’s meticulous attention to tailoring. The stylist knows his priorities when it comes to dressing the millennials on the move —tailoring. It is on the silhouette that he places his focus, rather than on texture and prints. “What sets one piece of couture apart from another is the tailoring. The embellishments are incidental,” he says with the calm assurance of a stylist who knows his craft — honed and perfected over 20 years.

Narendra Kumar, affectionately known as ‘Nari’ in fashion circles, is no stranger to sartorial innovation. A graduate of the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Delhi, he launched his eponymous label in 2000, quickly establishing himself as a pioneer in Indian menswear. His designs, celebrated for their perfect fit and contemporary themes, have graced ramps from India to Los Angeles and Dusseldorf, reflecting a global sensibility rooted in Indian heritage.

Beyond the runway, Kumar’s influence extends to editorial realms as the founding fashion editor of Elle India, and to the digital marketplace as the creative director of Amazon Fashion India. His Mumbai store’s recognition by Esquire magazine as one of the world’s top 50 stores in 2013 underscores his international acclaim.

Kumar’s versatility is further evidenced by his ventures into women’s fashion with the launch of Tamiska, a line that marries global aesthetics with Indian silhouettes, catering to the modern woman’s desire for elegance and ease. His FKNS collection redefines athleisure, blending street fashion with luxury through hand embroidery and rich fabrics. Notably, Kumar has styled Bollywood luminaries such as Amitabh Bachchan, Shah Rukh Khan, Aamir Khan, and Priyanka Chopra, and even designed a royal robe for WWE superstar Jinder Mahal, showcasing his ability to traverse diverse fashion aspects.

What truly distinguishes Kumar in the frenzied world of fashion is his rare ability to weave compelling stories into his collections. His shows are not just a string of models sashaying down a ramp donning his creations. They are tales that resonate with eclectic narratives — commentaries on the state of the world and reflections on higher ideals. Watching him unravel his creations is like witnessing an opera, so immersive that his designs seem to wrap themselves around the viewer’s soul and body.

“When I plan a show, I always think, ‘how am I going to impress the audience?’ So I think about everything — from the moment the audience steps in to what they will take home with them at the end. I want them to feel connected not just to the clothing I display, but to an enriching backdrop too,” says Kumar.

One of his most poignant shows was conceived around the love story of his parents, who had an inter-religious marriage. Fifteen years ago, he chanced upon a letter his father had written to his mother. The paper had turned ochre, the ink paled into an indistinct blue, and the pin had rusted. “I wanted to reflect the power of their love, how they fought their families and stood steadfast in their love, unlike marriages these days, which are more about pre-nuptials and financial details.”

The clothes showcased were in the four colours that the letter bore — beige, teal green, light blue, and rust. One garment even had the love letter printed on it as prints.

He added further drama to the show by writing a love poem, which was read aloud during the show, and wrapped it up with visuals from Guru Dutt and Waheeda Rehman’s unforgettable song from Kaagaz Ke Phool (Paper Flowers), waqt ne kiya. What’s more, he printed the poem on an inland letter, pinned it with carnations, and left it on every seat for the audience to take home.

“To me, it’s about how I change other people as a designer and an artist. It’s my job to capture the zeitgeist. Come to think of it, every piece of cloth we wear has a story. It tells about who we are.”

Such is the special attention he pays to each creation combining Indian styles with foreign elements like adding Japanese Samurai impressions or Game of Thrones elements, to name a couple. An embroidered ensemble with a bold double-collar flourish on a female mannequin in the store reflected a feminineness bolstered by an inner sense of masculine power. Another piece replaced the conventional tie with a flowing scarf as an elegant extension of the collar. Nothing that Kumar creates is over-the-top or loud. They are sophisticated, much like the taste of his potential clientele in Dubai.

The city will now be his creative lab because it is a “cul-de-sac of cultures” where new styles are evolving by borrowing from sensibilities around the world. He wants people to find suits that are not mere copies of age-old, worn designs, but are statements of self and reflections of personality in the most modern manner. “There is a big market in Dubai which I am eager to tap into. Whether for ceremonial or business purposes, what people wear must have a story. It need not be known to others, but the person wearing it will reflect the confidence and charisma that comes from wearing a special design.”

Kumar’s foray into the Dubai market is also part of his broader vision — to take his design philosophy from Bollywood to Hollywood. How delightful it is to know that he once created a suit for Jeff Bezos based solely on the latter’s photographs!  When the billionaire tried it on, the fit was so precise he couldn’t believe the tailoring could be that perfect without physical measurements.

From layering his creations with stories and making each piece a miscellany of influences to presenting his clothes in a way that makes the customer feel part of a sartorial legacy, Kumar is on a mission to make Dubai the epicentre of refined, dynamic fashion. After all, his creations are all about fusion and fiction coming together.  

wknd@khaleejtimes.com