How a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch became a mirror to art and culture of the times

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Xu Beihong Trilogy unites fine watchmaking with the Chinese artist’s iconic horses, capturing motion and eternity within the refined geometry of the Reverso

  • PUBLISHED: Fri 19 Sept 2025, 2:37 PM

Nestled in the Vallée de Joux since 1833‭, ‬Jaeger-LeCoultre has long been celebrated as the‭ ‬“watchmaker’s watchmaker”‭, ‬crafting horological milestones that are also poetic objects of beauty‭. ‬Among its many creations‭, ‬none resonate more deeply with collectors than the Reverso‭. ‬Conceived in 1931‭ ‬to withstand the bruising elegance of polo‭, ‬its swivelling Art Deco case is an‭ ‬icon and has since evolved into a canvas that blends mechanical ingenuity and artistry‭.‬

Since polo first gave the Reverso its reason for being‭, ‬the model has always had the horse in its soul‭. ‬And in Chinese culture‭, ‬the horse has for centuries embodied power‭, ‬nobility‭, ‬and vitality‭, ‬and has been celebrated in mythical creatures such as‭ ‬longma‭ (‬dragon horse‭) ‬and‭ ‬Tianma‭ (‬flying horse‭). ‬How fitting‭, ‬then‭, ‬that the horse returns to the Reverso stage with the brand’s latest releases‭. ‬With the approaching Chinese Year of the Horse‭, ‬Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils a trilogy of Reverso Tribute Enamel‭ ‬timepieces that unite both histories in an act of cultural and artistic alchemy‭.‬

At the heart of the Reverso Tribute Enamel‭ ‬‘Xu Beihong’‭ ‬lies the spirit of the pioneering Chinese artist‭, ‬whose brushwork revolutionised modern Chinese painting in the early 20th century‭. ‬Xu is known to have needed only the simplest of lines to summon horses that pulsed with power and spirit‭ ‬–‭ ‬so alive they seemed ready to gallop straight into the real world‭. ‬

To transpose these monumental works‭, ‬often larger than life‭,‬‭ ‬onto a surface scarcely two centimetres across is an audacious undertaking‭. ‬Yet Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares atelier rises to the challenge‭, ‬each enamel miniature requiring 80‭ ‬painstaking hours to capture the sweep of ink‭ ‬and the depth of expression through grand feu enamelling and guillochage‭.‬

On the reverse of each watch‭, ‬the horse appears in three guises‭. ‬The Running Horse streaks across white gold with unrestrained majesty‭, ‬while its dial glows in Evergreen Pine Green enamel over a radiant sunray guilloche‭ ‬–‭ ‬echoing vitality and resilience‭. ‬Two Horses conjures the harmony of contrasting spirits‭, ‬black and white‭, ‬galloping in unison‭, ‬paired with a barley-grain motif beneath translucent Distant Mountain Blue‭. ‬Finally‭, ‬The Standing Horse denotes quiet strength‭, ‬its poised stillness alive with latent power‭, ‬fronted by a herringbone guilloché dial washed in Crimson Dawn Orange‭, ‬warm and evocative like sunrise over an endless plain‭.‬

These timepieces are not mere ornaments‭, ‬but fine examples of high watchmaking from a master watchmaker‭, ‬powered by the hand-wound Calibre 822‭, ‬a movement as discreet as it is reliable‭. ‬The white gold case retains the timeless Reverso proportions‭, ‬its swivelling architecture preserving the artwork until the wearer chooses to reveal it‭ ‬—‭ ‬either in a quiet moment alone or shared in conversation‭.‬

Only 10‭ ‬examples of each reference will be made‭. ‬Such scarcity is expected‭, ‬for these are not watches designed to be plentiful‭; ‬each carrying within it a dialogue between East and West‭, ‬between tradition and reinvention‭, ‬between utility and art‭.‬

The Reverso has always been more than a watch‭ ‬—‭ ‬it has served as a mirror of eras‭, ‬passions‭, ‬and cultures‭. ‬In the Xu Beihong trilogy‭, ‬Jaeger-LeCoultre demonstrates that true horology goes beyond counting hours‭, ‬capturing the spirit of art and culture within the precise geometry of a golden rectangle‭. ‬For those who wear it‭, ‬this Reverso will stand as a reminder that time‭, ‬like Xu Beihong’s horses‭, ‬is both fleeting and eternal‭.‬