Jacob & Co. Billionaire Angel Cut Review: A 40-year legacy of audacious luxury

Inside the intimate story behind the new proprietary diamond cut and the mechanical mastery of the Double Tourbillon Angel Cut

  • PUBLISHED: Thu 16 Apr 2026, 1:43 PM UPDATED: Thu 16 Apr 2026, 1:44 PM

There’s a certain kind of audacity that has always defined Jacob‭ & ‬Co‭. ‬The maison is no stranger to spectacle‭, ‬but beneath that affinity for theatre lies a deep‭, ‬instinctive refusal to accept limits‭. ‬When Jacob Arabo began his journey four decades ago‭, ‬he wasn’t simply setting diamonds into jewellery‭; ‬he was asking what else they could become‭. ‬That question has come to shape a house where gem-setting and watchmaking don’t just coexist‭ ‬—‭ ‬they feed off each other‭.‬

If you’ve followed the Billionaire line‭, ‬you’ll know it has never been about restraint‭. ‬It’s where Jacob‭ & ‬Co‭. ‬allows itself to dream at full volume‭. ‬What’s interesting‭ ‬—‭ ‬especially now‭, ‬at this 40-year milestone‭ ‬—‭ ‬is that the latest chapter isn’t just bigger or brighter‭. ‬It feels more thoughtful‭.‬

The Angel Cut is‭, ‬on paper‭, ‬a new diamond cut‭. ‬In reality‭, ‬it’s a very personal statement‭. ‬Named after Arabo’s wife‭, ‬Angela‭, ‬and marked by 37‭ ‬facets that echo their years together‭, ‬it carries an emotional weight that feels unusually intimate for something so technically driven‭. ‬At the same time‭, ‬the cut tackles a genuine challenge‭: ‬how to retain the clean‭, ‬elegant lines of rectangular stones while giving them a more alive‭, ‬more responsive relationship with light‭.‬

What strikes you when you look closely isn’t brilliance in the traditional sense‭. ‬The light feels guided‭ ‬—‭ ‬softer at the edges‭, ‬yet somehow deeper‭. ‬There’s a calmness to it‭, ‬which is not something one usually associates with a diamond-heavy watch‭.‬

That character becomes fully apparent in the Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel Cut‭. ‬The 54‭ ‬by 41‭ ‬mm white gold case is‭, ‬frankly‭, ‬immense‭, ‬but it wears its scale with surprising coherence‭. ‬The diamonds‭, ‬nearly 300‭ ‬of them totalling around 79‭ ‬carats‭, ‬don’t feel randomly opulent‭. ‬They’re arranged with a kind of rhythm‭, ‬like a surface that has been carefully composed rather than simply covered‭.‬

Then your eye settles on the dial‭, ‬and the watch reveals its second act‭. ‬Two flying tourbillons sit opposite each other at 12‭ ‬and 6‭ ‬o’clock‭, ‬quietly turning‭, ‬almost grounding the piece‭. ‬It’s an important detail‭. ‬Without that mechanical symmetry‭, ‬the watch could easily tip into excess‭. ‬Instead‭, ‬it feels balanced‭ ‬—‭ ‬deliberately so‭.‬

Inside‭, ‬the JCAM50‭ ‬movement is exactly what you’d expect from Jacob‭ & ‬Co‭. ‬at this level‭: ‬complex‭, ‬substantial‭, ‬and thoughtfully executed‭, ‬with 460‭ ‬components and a 72-hour power reserve‭. ‬Flip the watch over‭, ‬and the sapphire caseback offers a completely different mood‭. ‬After all that brilliance‭, ‬the skeletonised movement feels almost introspective‭, ‬like stepping backstage after a scintillating performance‭.‬

By developing its first proprietary diamond cut‭, ‬Jacob‭ & ‬Co‭. ‬is no longer relying on the language of traditional gemology‭. ‬It’s writing its own‭. ‬And perhaps that’s the real story‭. ‬Beneath the diamonds‭, ‬the tourbillons‭, ‬and the theatre of it all‭, ‬this is a watch about control‭ ‬—‭ ‬about knowing exactly how far to push things‭, ‬and when to hold back‭.‬