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Sun, Nov 16, 2025 | Jumada al-Awwal 25, 1447 | Fajr 05:16 | DXB 
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How Indian fine jewellery is finding a new home in the Gulf
Brands are pivoting from the US market to the Middle East in a search for higher demand for their vibrant, handcrafted, and meaningful designs, especially during the Diwali festive season
"I believe that gifting for Diwali should be mindful, meaningful, and personal. I’ve never liked wasteful gifting – I’d rather not give a gift at all than do it for the sake of it,” says Ananya Malhotra, founder of fine jewellery brand Ananya. It should be noted that nothing in the jewellery designer’s eponymous range of bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings could be considered ‘wasteful’ gifting. I’d be utterly thrilled to receive any one of the bold, yet feminine, uniquely contemporary creations. Each piece is designed with intention, around stones chosen for their healing qualities. “In Indian culture, jewellery has always been more than just adornment – it marks life’s most significant moments and carries profound symbolic value,” says Malhotra. The brand’s marquee collection, ‘Chakra’, is inspired by each energy centre, harnessing stones such as turquoise, associated with the mystical throat chakra to promote positive energy and communication. Or tiger’s eye, shown here, aligning the mystical root, sacral and solar plexus chakra, worn to ground its wearer and enhance confidence. Drawing from ancient principles of Ayurvedic medicine, gemstones are said to influence emotional and physical health. Lost your muse? Try labradorite to boost artistic spirit. Struggling with imposter syndrome? Citrine is associated with self-worth. And whether you buy into the healing and protection properties or not, coloured gemstones are undeniably divine to behold.
“During Diwali, people love to embrace colour, and it’s often when we see our most vibrant ‘Chakra’ bracelets come to life,” Malhotra says. “Pieces featuring ruby beads, African jade and amethyst are especially popular. Many associate colour with good fortune, and we enjoy guiding clients towards pieces that align with their personal energy.”
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Earlier this month the brand exhibited at Jewels of the World in Riyadh’s Four Seasons hotel, one of a growing number of Indian jewellery specialists seeking refuge from tumultuous trade relations across the Pacific. Nader Freiha, Director of luxury jewellery publisher and organiser of Jewels of the World, MPP Saudi Arabia, says, “Trump-era tariffs have led to more Indian brands shifting their focus toward the Middle East, where customs duty is 5%, compared to the 50% duty imposed on exports to the US.”
Over the four editions of Jewels of the World held in Saudi this year, Freiha reports “huge demand” for Indian jewels. “I believe what is so loved about the designs is the variety and fluidity; from fine detailing, use of uncut gemstones, enamelling and lace-like detailing – the quality of handcrafting is impeccable,” he says, adding, “there are strong cultural ties between the Gulf and India. The elaborate and intricate designs of Indian jewellery and the vibrant, regal and often ‘statement-making’ aesthetic are highly appreciated by enthusiasts in the Middle East.”
Malhotra agrees that Ananya’s clients across the GCC appreciate the artistry of Indian jewellery. “The UAE has always had a special connection with the brand. The designs, colours, and expressive gemstones resonate deeply with people who appreciate both beauty and meaning,” she says. “India has always been synonymous with luxury and the finest craftsmanship. Somewhere along the way, I feel we lost sight of that heritage – which is why it’s so refreshing to see the world once again appreciating everything India has to offer in fashion, art, and design,” Malhotra adds, citing fashion designer Anamika Khanna’s creations as a celebration of the rich tapestry of Indian craftsmanship.
This weekend, the festival of Dhanteras heralds an auspicious day to buy gold and silver for Hindus at the start of Diwali. Following a week in which gold prices hit record highs, the stability of a pre-produced jewellery piece pay be more appealing than those subject to market fluctuations. That said, Malhotra returns to her mantra of looking to the real resonance of the festive season. “For me, Diwali has always been about its deeper meaning – a celebration of love and light triumphing over darkness. Lighting diyas, being surrounded by friends and family, and feeling the energy and vibrancy of the occasion always fills me with warmth and joy,” she says. The jewels? They’re a happy bonus.
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