These designers are changing the face of fashion in the UAE

Wondering what to wear this Eid?

Ask anyone around the world about their take on Middle Eastern fashion and they will probably say something about hijabs and abayas - and not without reason. Both are integral aspects of Middle Eastern culture. But that doesn't mean fashion in the region is limited in any way. If anything, with a large number of hijabistas, influencers and fashion designers leading the way, conservative fashion is constantly being moulded and redefined according to international trends.
This week, we speak to three designers who are revolutionising modest fashion by experimenting with colours, cuts, silhouettes, fabrics and even ideas - while still remaining respectful of local traditions and sensibilities. From dreamy princess gowns to more edgy pieces, this is all the fashion inspiration you need.
SELMA BENOMAR

There are two reasons why the UAE-based fashion designer Selma Benomar's brand has the slogan 'When fashion meets tradition'. Her roots are back in Morocco where her uncle and aunt made kaftans for a living, so she actually grew up surrounded by beads and fabric, learning everything she could about embroidery. She also had a stint in Paris, where she studied business administration. As the fashion capital of the world, it was only natural that Paris influenced her style.
"My experiences made a big difference when it came to my ability to blend what's traditional and what's modern," she admits. "They greatly influenced my taste."
When Selma moved to the UAE, she was surprised by how much the Arabic community loved Moroccan kaftans - even though most of them weren't quite up to date with the latest trends. It was then that she decided to start her own brand - even though she didn't have any formal education in fashion design. She set up her eponymous brand in 2012, after doing a few courses on the side and learning from other designers.
"In Morocco, you won't find a single woman who doesn't have a kaftan in her wardrobe," she declares, when asked why her brand focuses solely on the garment. "It's very common - we don't even wear dresses to functions, we wear kaftans. But unfortunately, a lot of people have the impression that kaftans are only for older ladies. So, it's become a mission of mine to change this idea, and show how Moroccan kaftans can be stylish - even red carpet-worthy!"
One look at Selma's collection will reveal how she has given the kaftan a whole new facelift. For starters, the fabrics, an integral part of her designing process, are kept light and casual, as opposed to heavier material like velvet. She has kept the belt light and practical as well. There is also the use of modern embroidery: instead of going with traditional Arabesque patterns, Selma takes inspiration from nature. In fact, her 2015 range, Hanging Gardens: saw embroidery of birds on the pieces - and that was one of her most successful collections.
"I like to take into account everything that is trending in the fashion world and my mission is to make outfits that can be worn for a normal evening out - not just reserved for an occasion," she explains. "The one thing I keep in mind is that the kaftan has to be decent. There are some traditions I always keep in mind, but in terms of cuts and colours, I follow international trends - and my heart."
AAVVA

If you're wondering how the brand AAVVA manages to be a perfect blend of the East and the West, it may all boil down to its founders - Lebanese Ahmad Ammar and Brazilian Vincenzo Visciglia. The former is a civil engineer who also did a degree at Esmod Fashion School, Beirut. The latter studied interior design in Miami, US, followed by architecture. Ironically, it was an engineering project in Dubai where they first met and discovered their shared passion for fashion, creativity and art. And so, in 2011, they decided to launch AAVVA - a fashion brand that allowed them to express their creative vision.
"We use our diverse cultural backgrounds to bring out the best in our designs," explains Ahmad. "We never really planned it that way, but enjoyed the process of picking out different aspects from our respective cultures. But later, we realised our differences are the reason for our success."
Vincenzo couldn't agree more. "It's because of our differences that we have been able to please both our eastern and western clientele," he says, adding, "The brand is also largely inspired by the UAE that is always buzzing with talent and motivation. We always incorporate a little bit of architecture in each collection by using a combination of clean geometry, symmetry and an artistic combination of colours."
The duo is also quick to acknowledge that the UAE is a place that is both traditional and modern, which is why they keep in mind local culture and sensibilities while designing.  "It's important to know your audience," explains Ahmad. "We do our best to design pieces that complement a woman's body, that enhance her features and make her feel beautiful. At the same time, we want to be up-to-date with the latest trends so that she can truly enjoy wearing our creations."
With their unique ability to combine culture, art and fashion, AAVVA has witnessed incredible growth since its inception in 2011.Ahmad and Vincenzo recently represented the UAE in Altaroma, an international event in Rome for photographers, artists and designers. This year also saw the release their first Ramadan collection, and the designs are modest, vintage and chic - pretty perfect for Eid as well.
"We know the importance of the Holy Month and so we designed pieces that are fancy, but light. Simple, yet modern and stylish. We experimented with different block colours and used geometric shapes to modernise and enhance long, accentuating dresses," says Ahmad.
If you're wondering what to look out for this festive season, Ahmad and Vincenzo recommend minimal designs with a mix of block colours and raw prints that leave a lasting impact. "Simple is always smart. But your personal style should reflect in what you wear," says Vincenzo. "Follow trends, but don't blindly adopt them."
BOUGUESSA



Go through French-Algerian fashion designer Faiza Bouguessa's collection and you're sure to see why her work is so acclaimed. Her designs are known for their bold tailoring and cuts, and the final looks seem to be inspired by menswear. Moreover, Faiza boldly started designing long pieces with the silhouettes of jackets, robes, trench coats and shirts: what she calls the 'modern abaya'.
"I like to think that my designs can be worn by women all over the world and since they are inspired by classic patterns, women outside the region can also see these designs for what they are: unique statement pieces," she says. "Women within the region can see them as modern abayas that look both trendy and conservative, for when they are travelling. A few people told me, 'This is not an abaya', but most women here are very fashion forward and therefore, were very open to these new silhouettes."
Her modern designs have also won over the likes of international celebrities. In fact, a design from her very first collection was seen on none other than Beyoncé - something that did have an impact on the designer. "I started my line for the region initially," she says. "I was not expecting to see someone like Beyoncé in one of my pieces. It made me re-think my goals, early on!"
Having grown up around fashion-conscious women in France, Faiza developed an interest in the industry at an early age. Her mother introduced her to all forms of art, such as dance, theatre, sculpture and painting while her aunts were always wearing the latest Parisian trends. Another source of inspiration was her maternal grandmother, a seamstress who used to sew clothes for her eight children - and liked to experiment with styles.
"I think she passed this passion onto me," explains Faiza. "Later on, I did multiple internships in fashion houses and took part in couture workshops to hone my skills. Additionally, I read a lot and kept myself updated with what was happening in the industry, as well as focused on other disciplines such as architecture, art and design."
It was a brief stint as an Emirates flight attendant that brought Faiza to Dubai, although starting her own brand was always in the pipeline. "I was working towards my goal in my spare time," she says.
Her hard work is undoubtedly paying off. Her 2017 Ramadan collection saw the launch of stunning asymmetric pleated abayas; she has also recently launched her Autumn Winter collection, brimming with Victorian collars, wide belts, retro hats, 70s plaid and power red.
"I want to give women the freedom of expressing their personality through their style. That's why I design modern abayas and modest clothing that will make them feel like a part of contemporary global trends."
Speaking of global, Faiza hopes to keep pushing herself, season after season, to ensure her brand is an international success. Seeing how modest fashion is up-and-coming - with pieces like trench coats trending globally - she may not be too far from her goal.
janice@khaleejtimes.com