Grey matters

Fashion is finally growing up - and looking to older women. among those who find themselves leading the life of a jet-setting model is Dubai-based 53-year-old Caroline Labouchere

It's being called a 'Greynnaisance' by those in fashion - which suggests that there is a revival or a renewed interest in all things grey. While there is no question that fashion is finally starting to embrace the older woman, it is still more of a micro trend than a macro one. It really started in 2015, when the then 80-year-old author Joan Didion was asked to appear in a campaign for French luxury brand Céline. A few weeks after this announcement, New York-based style icon Iris Apfel had a Barbie doll modelled after her. This 96-year-old (who describes herself as "the oldest teenager living in the world") had a documentary, Iris, filmed around her style story four years ago. And with Joni Mitchell being cast in Saint Laurent's print campaign that year too, it confirmed that fashion was looking to be more mature.
Dubai is now catching up with this trend; in March this year, Emirates Woman had art maven Patricia Millns on its cover. The Dubai based 67-year-old is considered one of the founding pioneers of the modern art movement in the Middle East.
And then, we have Caroline Labouchere - the city's first grey-haired international model. She is 53 years old and her face graces the pages of Vogue UK, among other leading international fashion magazines this month, as the 'No 1 Rosemary Water' woman.
What makes Caroline's story really remarkable is that she became a full-time model a year ago, when she was 52 (she admits she wanted to be a model when she was teenager growing up in England's Bedfordshire, the daughter of Lord Luke of Pavenham, but her mother did not think this was the correct career choice for a young girl).
The mum-of-two has been living in Dubai for seven years and says, "Having had a career as an army officer's wife for all of my married life, it was almost a relief that I could now be myself rather than an adjunct to someone else. I went out independently and got a job as a receptionist in a school."
Three years ago, she was attending the Dubai World Cup. Standing almost 5' 7" tall, with long, sleek, grey looks, she caught the eye of photographer Francesco Scotti. But when Scotti approached her, she thought it was her daughter Mimi, who's a model herself, he wanted to work with. "I obviously didn't take him seriously and told him to speak to my daughter Mimi as she actually is a model. Francesco called Mimi the next day and booked us both for a photo shoot a few days later." And that shoot lead to her walking the ramp for Taller Marmo's Autumn/Winter 2015 show at Fashion Forward Dubai.
Six months ago, Caroline took the plunge and made modelling her full-time profession when she was roped in as the face of No 1 Rosemary Water, a UK-based brand. "My daughter Mimi was working at No 1 Rosemary Water in the UK and they wanted a grey-haired model to be the face of the campaign. Initially, they were thinking of hiring the beautiful Maye Musk (Elon Musk's mother) - but I got the job and the rest is history.
"I left my job after six-and-a-half years just last term. My friends and colleagues were so supportive. They all wore long grey wigs at my leaving party!"
In the campaign, Caroline was cast as "Rosemary". She looks statuesque, grey hair coiffured perfectly, with the campaign reading: "Rosemary Has A Secret". (The brand is hoping to launch in Dubai later this year - so you can see the campaign in media here too.)
Caroline admits that "Dubai is probably not the best place for a grey model yet - but I hope that will change soon and that's what I'm working towards. I am the first grey international model in the region. I actually get more work in the UK and Paris than I do here."
She is presently waiting to hear back about another big job in Paris, and has recently completed a project for Dior in Dubai. "Dior has a partnership with Savoir Flair (the Dubai-based digital magazine) and they asked me to be part of the Dior Jewellery campaign. I'm a huge lover of jewellery and fell in love with the collection 'Dior Rose des Vents' during this shoot."
She is hopeful that more work will come her way. "I would love to walk the runway again; it is so exciting and exhilarating and, if the opportunity arrives, I would jump at the chance. Print is exciting and enduring; sometimes you have no idea where the stylist is going with a look until you see the finished product. I may be greedy but I hope to enjoy both!"
Interestingly, she did colour her hair when she first moved here. "I went through phases of blonde and brunette and then I just let it go. I gave up, stopped fighting the grey and I have never felt so empowered. People with grey hair often go unnoticed, but believe me, we have so much to contribute."
Caroline firmly believes 'Greynnaisance' is here to stay. "There will only be more of us over time. All the gorgeous young models will age and become more beautiful and why should they stop work due to age? Personally, I believe that mature models have a voice. We appeal to both the young generation and our own generation. When I look at my Instagram insights, I'm blown away that most of my followers are aged between 25 and 35." Internationally, it's a trend that is growing in strength. New York-based Seth Cohen is known as the "man who blogs about silver stylistas" as he only writes and photographs women who are 60-plus in his blog, Advanced Style. A documentary has been made on his work and he has even consulted with luxury brands. In a recent interview to Business of Fashion (the industry's go-to website), he says, "When you show an older woman in a campaign, not only does she have the power to inspire a younger person but also the power to inspire her generation."
So, if a fashion brand wants to gain the attention of Generation Z and also keep the older woman (who, after all, has the power to spend) on its side, a woman of "advanced style" like Caroline may well be the answer.
Caroline's "Ageless" Secrets:
1. I don't wear makeup and I only air-dry my hair.
2. I like to keep it natural - using apple cider vinegar as a toner and Vitamin C for the night. Also, only natural supplements for my hair, nails and skin.
3. I keep fit by running, doing Pilates and spinning. I've run two marathons in the last year and hope to run an Ultra next.
4. I do what makes me confident. I am ready to travel anywhere at anytime, and I'm comfortable to do it on my own. I am happier now than I have ever been and ready for whatever life throws at me. I have dabbled with Botox in the past - in my opinion, it's a very personal thing. I think doctors have become better at administering it and so, today, a little bit of Botox doesn't have to remove your expression. If it makes you feel confident removing your lines, I say go for it.
5. I'm grateful: happiness, for me, comes from deep within - it has to do with accepting, not judging, and being grateful. This is what helps to make one beautiful. It's an internal journey.
sujata@khaleejtimes.com