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Dubai: Would you propose with a lab grown diamond?

The ability to purchase larger‭, ‬higher-quality diamonds at the same price point as a smaller mined diamond is a game-changer for‭ ‬Dubai’s price-conscious luxury shoppers

Published: Sat 1 Mar 2025, 12:00 AM

Updated: Mon 2 Jun 2025, 1:07 PM

Lab-grown diamonds are taking Dubai’s luxury jewellery market by storm‭, ‬with experts predicting they could overtake natural diamond sales within five years as consumers‭ ‬ opt for identical quality at up to‭ ‬ 80‭ ‬per cent lower costs‭.‬

From Elizabeth Taylor’s dazzling collection to Audrey Hepburn gazing into Tiffany’s windows and Marilyn Monroe singing Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend‭ ‬—‭ ‬just imagine if Hollywood’s most iconic jewels had been lab-grown‭, ‬offering the same sparkle at a fraction of the price‭. ‬

In Dubai’s competitive diamond market‭, ‬retailers are witnessing a dramatic shift in consumer preferences‭, ‬says Fergus James‭, ‬owner of a bespoke diamond retailer in Dubai‭. ‬“From our experience‭, ‬if you line up 10‭ ‬customers who have not purchased a diamond before buying an engagement ring‭, ‬and then you‭ ‬give them equal neutral information‭, ‬seven out of 10‭ ‬will buy a lab-grown diamond over a mined natural one‭.‬”

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The price differential is the primary driver‭, ‬he said‭. ‬“With three-carat mined diamonds‭, ‬you’re probably looking at around‭ $‬30,000-$35,000‭ (‬Dh110,177-Dh128,540‭) ‬plus‭, ‬and‭, ‬depending on the spec‭, ‬you can go all the way up‭ ‬to‭ $‬50,000-$60,000‭. ‬But with lab-grown diamonds‭, ‬with the same specification or quality‭, ‬you are probably looking at about‭ $‬4,000-$4,500‭.‬

Lab-grown diamonds are chemically identical to mined diamonds and certified by the same organisations‭, ‬such as GIA and IGI‭, ‬said‭ ‬James‭. ‬“It is like an IVF child and a child that was conceived naturally‭. ‬I mean‭, ‬obviously‭, ‬it’s a different process‭. ‬But the point is‭, ‬you’ve got two kids at the end‭, ‬each with their own DNA‭. ‬With diamonds‭, ‬a lab-grown diamond artificially created is not a natural product‭, ‬but chemically‭, ‬it is classified as a diamond‮…‬‭ ‬a diamond that is facially identical‭.‬”

James said that two primary methods are used in producing lab diamonds‭.  ‬The first‭, ‬HPHT‭ (‬high pressure‭, ‬high temperature‭), ‬involves placing a carbon seed in a sophisticated oven under extreme conditions for several weeks‭. ‬The technique produces a similar‭ ‬effect to that of natural diamonds‭, ‬when carbon is exposed to intense pressure and heat of up to 1300‭ ‬°‭ ‬C‭, ‬and crystallises over billions of years up to 120km underground‭. ‬

The second method‭, ‬CVD‭ (‬chemical vapour deposition‭), ‬involves similar processes with additional chemical treatments‭.‬

Despite their different origins‭, ‬both lab-grown and natural diamonds undergo identical cutting and finishing processes‭, ‬requiring the same level of expert craftsmanship‭. ‬“When you get a rough diamond‭, ‬obviously out of the ground as Mother Nature has delivered it‭, ‬it could be amazing quality‭, ‬it could be a perfect shape‭, ‬it could be a really difficult shape to cut‭. ‬Like how this cut is predominantly determined by‭, ‬you know‭, ‬how nature has formed that natural piece of rough‭.‬”

“Once you get to that point where you’ve got the rough diamond‭, ‬or the rough natural or the rough piece of lab grown‭, ‬the same process happens‭, ‬like they plot how they’re going to cut them‭. ‬Then it’s handed over to the cutter‭, ‬who with the same tools and the same cutting wheel‭, ‬cuts the lab run‭, ‬or natural‭, ‬diamond into shape‭.‬”

This commitment to craftsmanship remains consistent regardless of the diamond’s origin‭. ‬“We don’t put any more or less effort into lab or mined diamonds‭. ‬We put effort into creating really beautiful pieces of jewellery and delivering to the customer what is right for them‭,‬”‭ ‬says James‭.‬

Dubai’s diverse clientele

Contrary to initial expectations‭, ‬the appeal of lab-grown diamonds crosses all demographic and socioeconomic boundaries‭. ‬“I thought it would be like your classic Gen Z-millennial‭, ‬an eco-warrior who may be short of a bit of cash‭,‬”‭ ‬James says‭. ‬“But it really isn’t‭... ‬it’s not limited to one demographic or another‭, ‬or even a certain nationality‭. ‬You could say‭, ‬fine‭, ‬people from the UK‭, ‬for example‭, ‬could be more open to it‭ (‬lab diamonds‭) ‬because they’re not as educated as people from Egypt‭, ‬for example‭, ‬when it comes to diamonds‭; ‬it’s not as much part of the culture as in Egypt‭.‬”

James finds all those rules just don’t apply‭. ‬“It’s like someone ripped up the rulebook and said‭, ‬‘Anyone from any walk of life‭, ‬any culture‭, ‬people just don’t care if a diamond is lab made anymore‭.‬’”

quote It’s like someone ripped up the rulebook and said‭, ‬‘Anyone from any walk of life‭, ‬any culture‭, ‬people just don’t care if a diamond is lab made anymore‭"

Fergus James‭

Even ultra-wealthy customers are choosing lab-grown diamonds‭. ‬“We had a customer who spent three quarters of a million dollars on a bespoke ring‭. ‬And then the next purchase she made were matching earrings that were lab grown‭,‬”‭ ‬said James‭. ‬“We’ve got a group of Saudi ladies who buy lab-grown diamonds‭. ‬They tell me not to tell their sisters or cousins that they buy lab-grown‭. ‬They don’t care‭, ‬as long as it looks good‭.‬”

Arnaud Fambeau‭, ‬executive chairman of Dubai-based 2DOT4‭, ‬has also noted a significant shift in consumer awareness‭. ‬“Five years ago‭, ‬most people didn’t even know about lab-grown diamonds‭. ‬Today‭, ‬consumers are asking for them‭,‬”‭ ‬he says‭. ‬“It’s not about age or wealth anymore‭. ‬Everyone loves diamonds‭. ‬And here in Dubai‭, ‬where consumption of luxury jewellery is higher than in Europe‭, ‬the demand for lab-grown diamonds is booming‭. ‬GCC populations are younger than in Europe‭, ‬and lab-grown diamonds‭ ‬clearly appeal to younger buyers‭. ‬They’re beautiful‭, ‬reasonably priced‭, ‬and have a much smaller environmental impact‭.‬”‭ ‬

But it’s not just about affordability or ethics—it’s about luxury‭. ‬Lab-grown diamonds are real diamonds‭, ‬identical in chemical composition to their mined counterparts‭. ‬Fambeau says that consumers should not view them as an inferior product‭: ‬“A diamond is a diamond‭. ‬The only difference is how it’s made‭.‬”‭ ‬

The significant price difference between lab-grown and mined diamonds is reshaping purchasing decisions and having a significant‭ ‬impact on the wider market‭, ‬with lab-grown diamonds costing up to 80‭ ‬per cent less than traditional mined diamonds‭, ‬says Fambeau‭.‬

The ability to purchase larger‭, ‬higher-quality diamonds at the same price point as a smaller mined diamond is a game-changer for‭ ‬Dubai’s price-conscious luxury shoppers‭, ‬he said‭. ‬“For the same budget‭, ‬you can have a two-carat lab-grown diamond instead of a one-carat mined diamond‭. ‬Why choose something smaller when you can have something bigger‭ ‬—‭ ‬something that makes you feel proud every time you wear it‭?‬”‭ ‬

Yet‭, ‬this affordability doesn’t come at the expense of luxury‭. ‬In fact‭, ‬lab-grown diamonds often surpass mined diamonds in quality‭, ‬he said‭.‬

It would appear the price of luxury is becoming more accessible than ever‭, ‬with the perfect diamond ring now tantalisingly close‭ ‬without a compromise in quality‭.‬

Fambeau says only the top one per cent of mined diamonds are high-in-resaleable value and of notable quality‭. ‬“Yet the average quality of lab-grown diamonds is much higher than that of mined diamonds because we can control the process from‭ ‬start to finish‭.‬”‭ ‬

While lab-grown diamonds typically cost significantly less than mined diamonds‭, ‬this hasn’t diminished their luxury appeal‭. ‬Instead‭, ‬it’s allowed consumers to focus on quality and size‭. ‬“The sweet spot in lab-grown is‭ $‬3,200‭, ‬which is not bad at all‭. ‬It’s a luxury product‭,‬”‭ ‬says Fambeau‭.‬

James says that customers are increasingly redirecting their savings‭: ‬“People are even coming in like‭, ‬I want a natural‭ (‬diamond‭) ‬that’s my budget‭, ‬whatever it is‭. ‬Now they’re going out spending Dh25,000‭ ‬or Dh30,000‭ ‬instead on a lab-grown diamond and then buying themselves a watch or a bag with whatever they have saved‭.‬”

Spotting a good quality‭ ‬ lab-grown diamond

For the untrained eye‭, ‬it can be challenging to differentiate between a good lab-grown diamond and an exceptional one‭. ‬Fambeau offers guidance for shoppers looking for the best quality‭, ‬saying firstly‭, ‬it has to shine‭. ‬“You should see all the hues of light‭ ‬—‭ ‬red‭, ‬blue‭, ‬green‭ ‬—‭ ‬when you move the diamond‭. ‬That’s what I call the life inside‭.‬”

It should also be certified as a Triple Excellent Cut‭. ‬“A high-quality diamond will have a cut certified as‭ ‬‘excellent’‭ ‬in symmetry‭, ‬polish‭, ‬and proportion‭.‬”‭ ‬Most importantly‭, ‬he said‭, ‬consumers should be looking for the absence of‭ ‬‘milkiness‭. ‬“Some lab-grown diamonds can have a milky or cloudy appearance‭, ‬which diminishes their brilliance‭. ‬Milkiness isn’t listed in certification reports‭, ‬so you have to rely on the sparkle you see‭.‬”‭ ‬

The US market already shows lab-grown diamonds accounting for 60-70‭ ‬per cent of diamond sales by volume‭, ‬says Fambeau‭, ‬who predicts similar trends in the UAE within five years‭. ‬James notes that his business saw an immediate shift when they began offering lab-grown options‭: ‬“We flipped about from maybe five per cent lab grown as a percentage of our total volume‭, ‬probably to like 80‭ ‬per cent in a month‭.‬”

Resale value

While lab-grown diamonds typically have lower resale value‭, ‬James argues this should be viewed in context‭: ‬“You definitely lose more money on a lab-grown for sure‭. ‬And you know‭, ‬with natural diamonds‭, ‬people tend to spend more‭, ‬so if they tend to spend more‭, ‬the overall loss is probably greater on a natural than it would be on a lab‭.‬”

Dubai’s position as a global diamond trading centre provides unique advantages‭. ‬Fambeau highlights the emirate’s infrastructure through DMCC‭, ‬competitive electricity costs‭, ‬and ability to attract top talent as key factors in its success‭.‬

“The attractiveness of the lifestyle in Dubai‭... ‬makes the place extremely attractive for top-end engineers and people like that‭,‬”‭ ‬says Fambeau‭. ‬

Environmental consciousness adds another dimension to the luxury appeal‭. ‬2DOT4’s advanced technology consumes less energy than traditional mining‭, ‬with water consumption reduced by 99.99‭ ‬per cent‭. ‬This sustainability aspect particularly resonates with younger luxury consumers‭. ‬

Consumer appeal

“I’ve always wanted to buy myself a diamond ring but could never justify the price point‭,‬”‭ ‬says Tala Michel Issa‭, ‬29‭, ‬a Dubai resident who recently made her dream purchase possible through lab-grown diamonds‭. ‬“I chose lab-grown diamonds because they’re a lot cheaper‭,‬”‭ ‬she explains‭. ‬Her decision came after thorough market research‭. ‬“I wanted to understand why they were cheaper and it is basically the same as a mined diamond‭, ‬the only difference is that it is‭ ‬created in a lab under the same circumstances‭.‬”

‭ ‬The choice proved financially rewarding‭. ‬“I bought a lab-grown diamond ring that would have cost me more than double the price if I had settled for a mined diamond instead‭,‬”‭ ‬Issa reveals‭, ‬adding that these laboratory-created stones‭ ‬“are‭  ‬clearer and more crisply cut than regular diamonds”‭.‬

For Issa‭, ‬the growing availability of lab-grown diamonds represents a significant shift in the jewellery market‭. ‬“With lab-grown diamonds being more available‭, ‬it sort of democratises peoples’‭ ‬access to beautiful jewellery‭,‬”‭ ‬she says‭. ‬