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Dubai: Why you need to invest in a designer bag
Once a stylish accessory, the designer handbag has become one of the most powerful status symbols in the world and Dubai is now at the centre of its booming collectors’ market
- PUBLISHED: Thu 28 Aug 2025, 10:01 PM
Once seen as just a stylish accessory, the designer handbag has evolved into a high-stakes investment, powering a booming collectors’ market in Dubai. The region’s first dedicated handbag auction house has already recorded sales climbing to $350,000 (Dh1.28 million approximately), underscoring how valuable these pieces have become. Just last month at Sotheby’s in Paris, the original Hermes Birkin fetched $10m at the auction, cementing its place as an integral part of the collectors’ market.
At the centre of this growing industry is Claire Marie, who in 2023 was appointed by Sotheby’s as its first permanent handbag specialist based in Dubai — a role previously managed from afar by satellite consultants flying in from Europe.
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Marie remains the region’s sole handbags and accessories specialist, with a rare expertise in Hermès. Having once worked as an Hermès artisan — meticulously crafting the brand’s iconic bags from scratch for years — she now brings that insider knowledge to the world of collecting. For fashion enthusiasts, it’s the kind of role that feels less like a career and more like a dream job come to life.
The increasing interest in luxury collectibles, especially handbags, has led to new players entering the market, from private resellers to auction houses, but Sotheby’s is now the world’s leading outlet for handbags.
One of her latest big money sales was a White Matte Niloticus Crocodile Himalaya Birkin 25 with 18K white gold and diamond hardware, made by Hermès in 2021, one of the highest priced bags to date. “It was consigned to our inaugural ORIGINS auction in Saudi Arabia this past February and achieved a total of $336,000 — a remarkable result that reflects the strength of the region’s luxury market and the growing appetite for exceptional handbags in pristine condition,” Marie tells wknd. “The fact that such an outstanding handbag was consigned locally speaks volumes about the calibre of collectors and consignments in the Gulf today.”
She said that over the past few years, when it comes to luxury, clients in the Gulf region have developed an increasingly global outlook and eclectic tastes that reflect key international trends. “They travel frequently, attend international fashion events, and follow the latest runway shows in person and online, so they’re very well-versed in product knowledge from a retail experience perspective.”
Her role includes educating her clients in understanding the world of auctions and bidding in addition to the global handbag market. While the clients are fashion savvy, the world of auctions requires another level of expertise. “When it comes to the secondary luxury market in which auction houses operate, their [Gulf market] understanding of how to maximise its opportunities can be uneven, which is why so much of my role is about education and demystifying the dynamics of auctions, the consignment of products and the bidding process,” she explains.
“We sometimes see inflated expectations around valuations that don’t align with global market benchmarks. This, in turn, fuels speculation driven more by perception than data,” Marie adds, noting that it happens most often on social media. “That’s why I always encourage clients to rely on trusted sources, like Sotheby’s, to ensure they’re not paying over the odds.”
Handbags have been a massive asset for Sotheby’s which was first founded in London in 1744. In 2024 alone, the auction house conducted 16 luxury handbag auctions across New York, Hong Kong, Paris, and Zurich, more than any other auction house.
In the Gulf, women are on the lookout for specific items, hungry for not only high fashion, but classic elegance and discontinued pieces which remain timeless, says Marie. “At the moment, there’s strong demand for Mini Kellys, as well as Birkins and Kelly 25. The smaller sizes are particularly coveted for their versatility and elegance.”
Collectors are also drawn to limited-edition Blue Box designs, such as the Quelle Idole and Faubourg 20, alongside Himalaya Birkins and vibrant, seasonal colours that perfectly complement the region’s bold sense of style. “When it comes to Chanel, collectors are especially interested in Minaudières and Métiers d’Art limited editions, particularly those created under Karl Lagerfeld’s artistic direction. Exotic skins, now discontinued, are also highly prized, as they reflect a level of rarity and craftsmanship that is becoming increasingly difficult to find on the market.”
Recent sales have featured standout pieces such as the Black Shiny Crocodile Niloticus and Togo Birkin Touch 25 with Rose Gold Hardware (2019) — a rare edition combining crocodile, Togo leather, and rose gold detailing.
Equally notable was the Hermès Bubblegum Pink Matte Alligator Birkin 35 with Palladium Hardware (2013), a now-discontinued style that was swiftly snapped up as its rare colour surged back into demand in the wake of the Barbie phenomenon — a clear example of how pop culture and scarcity intersect in the luxury market.
Marie also began her own personal collection during her time with Hermès, when artisans were allowed to craft one personal bag per year, marked with the signature star stamp. “My very first creation was an Évelyne 28 in Chocolate Evercalf, a unique piece never released commercially, I’m very proud of it. Next came a Birkin 35 in Evergrain leather. I fondly remember that it felt “like butter” when I was handling the always tricky saddle-stitching process,” she says.
“Then I created for myself a Constance 24 in Vert Véronèse Epsom with gold hardware, a nod to my love of timeless design and my favourite colour, green. While I’ve added other beautiful pieces to my collection since, a Rouge Vif Kelly Danse, a Black Epsom Bolide 27, and an Emerald Green Chanel Boy among others, none hold the same sentimental value as the ones I made with my own hands,” Marie adds.
But she admits, as a self-styled ‘true collector’, she is always looking for ‘the next one’. “My current dream piece would be a Kelly 25 Sellier in Craie, or Blue Saphir, with gold hardware. It’s a fabulously elegant, structured, and forever timeless handbag.”
She often advises collectors visiting the Dubai gallery to buy what they truly love and what fits their lifestyle before chasing trends. “I always recommend starting with versatile, low-maintenance leathers like Epsom, Swift, or Evercolour from Hermès and Caviar leather for Chanel and building a well-rounded selection suited to different occasions, from everyday elegance to evening refinement.” As your confidence grows, you can begin to experiment with rare pieces, Marie adds. “You can then explore Doblis, goatskin, lambskin, marquetry work, Blue Box limited editions, seasonal exclusives, and exotic skins that reflect your personal taste and collecting goals.”
Moreover, knowing when to part ways with a bag is equally important, for those looking to maximise their assets. When a handbag hasn’t been used for six consecutive months, Marie suggests putting it back for auction. “The return on investment can be healthy, up to a quarter or third of the original price for certain items, especially if the piece is in excellent condition.”
Claire’s top tips for taking care of your luxury pieces
• Avoid direct exposure to sunlight and even moonlight as both can fade or distort delicate leathers.
• Keep bags away from air conditioning units or heaters, which can dry out or damage the material over time.
• Let your bags breathe: avoid keeping them sealed in boxes for too long — air them for a few days from time to time if you’re not using them and haven’t yet decided to sell them or pass them on. Rotation and airflow help preserve the leather’s integrity.
• Maintain their shape by gently stuffing the interior with acid-free paper or fabric.
• Never let a pen near your handbag. Stick to pencils only.
• If there is a bit of dust you can try and remove it with a dry soft dust-appropriate microfibre cloth. For anything else, consult a specialist. This is true if your bag is a rare and valuable model like the Birkin, when it comes to cleaning its exterior, you’d ideally want to ask the original maker of the bag, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France, or a Compagnon du Devoir (all extremely qualified leather artisans). They possess the expertise, tools, and specialised techniques that aren’t available to the general market. While the lead time can sometimes be lengthy, it’s well worth the wait.