Food review: The verdict is in on the new Tresind

THE RESTAURANT REMAINS in the same location, the Nassima Royal Hotel, but that's about the only similarity the updated Tresind shares with its previous incarnation. Oh, that and its commitment to providing some of the most innovative Indian cuisine Dubai has ever seen.
That's right, much like when a soap opera character is written out for a couple of years only to return with a new, better looking and more dynamic actor in the role, Tresind's remodeling heralds a new era of pushing the culinary envelope in a more vibrant environ. From the lighter, dare we say more hipster yet still elegant decor, to the more open-plan seating and various new sections including a wonderful lounge bar and soon-to-open VIP dining studio (more on that when it comes online), the dining room's transformation is as welcome as it is complete.
Taking our seats on the multi-coloured canvas chairs, the impeccably mannered staff (a Tresind constant) informed us of the feast about to unfold: a taste of all that has been enhanced in order to reinvent the menu without wandering too far from the recipes for which it made its name. The anticipation was palpable. Having been enormous admirers of the chef's work each prior visit, we resembled two pets at the point they catch their owner heading to the chow cupboard. Staring wide-eyed at any plate which neared our vicinity, if we had tails they would have been wagging. Then it happened: the first round of our special set meals arrived.
One vegetarian carte selection, the other carnivorous, choosing a multi-dietary overview of what is now on offer was an uncharacteristically wise move on our part because to miss out on some of the creations as a result of our predilection for meat would have been unforgiveable. Highlights of the entrees first included a keema dosa. The usually vegan pancake being wrapped around a mince kebab was a succulent delight, perfectly balanced with its accompanying tomato chutney. The Wagyu satay was also a success, as was the cedar wood smoked tandoori chicken with chili marinade. Although, it was the peanut butter paneer medallion with mint chutney and tomato powder, which brought the house down - each subtle flavour exploding into a virtual firework display on the tongue.
A sorbet palate cleanser later and the mains were en route. Here, six dishes did more at titillating our palates than any meal has managed to achieve in ages. To go into every detail would be impossible, but the main takeaway points are: if you don't try the Thai black rice appam which comes alongside a chicken chettinad, the Bengali kosha mangsho (a mutton curry for which we would happily crawl to Bengal to enjoy again), and the morel lababdar - a rare mushroom seasoned with truffle oil tadka and served with a lotus crisp, you haven't lived. In a word: breathtaking.
Other elements included a paneer rogan josh - a dense intense affair - and kadhai lobster, but we'd stick with the aforementioned three, the virtues of which you will extol for a 'tres' long while.
Where: Tresind
Best dish: Peanut butter paneer medallion
Cost per person: Dhs375

• Food and Dining